Reedsburg Woolen Mill Records, 1877-1878, 1902-1967

Container Title
Series: Specifications and Samples
Scope and Content Note

Raw Material Samples, 1939, 1960-1967: The samples collected here include a variety of grades and types of wool, both virgin and re-processed; nubs; silk; rayon; orlon; etc. The wide range of types of wool and their peculiar characteristics as well as the properties of the other fibers constitute an important input into the design of the fabric; they are also an important factor in the cost of the finished product.

Picking Records, 1952-1965: These records are the specifications for carding, the initial processing of raw materials. At the end of the carding process raw material can be spun into thread. Information shown includes style number, dyes, type of raw material, and the cost of each.

Carding Blends, 1952-1960: These samples are the finished product of the carding operation. At this stage raw materials have been cleaned, combed, and mixed and are ready to be spun into a specific style of thread. Arrangement of the 1952-1954 samples is by year. Those from 1955-1960 are organized by style number. This style number corresponds to the style number on the picking records; consequently it is possible to trace the exact recipe for many of the samples in this series.

Yarn Samples, ca. 1940-1960, 1966-1967: Small samples of yarns spun at Reedsburg or available for sale to the mill. The first box contains samples probably dating from the 1940's and early 1950's. The remaining samples are organized by year.

Design Sheets, 1922-1967: A design sheet shows the complete specifications for the production of a particular style of fabric. These include the color and size of yarn, weaving drafts (color arrangement and fabric structure), weight, and width of the finished cloth. In many cases a sample of the finished cloth is also attached. The 1922-1962 design sheets are organized by year and within each year range numbers are designated. Due to the changing and somewhat confusing pattern of range numbers, sheets are not always in order by range number within each box. The 1963-1967 sheets are on file, cards and are organized strictly by range number.

Fabric Samples, 1877-1878, 1939-1942, 1952-1963: One fabric sample book dates from 1877-1878, shortly before the Reedsburg mill was erected. The balance of the samples are primarily from Reedsburg's own products and provide a visual cross-section of the mill's products. Most prominent are samples of men's overcoating and top coating, women's coating and suiting, children's coating, blankets, and plaids for “buffalo shirts” (heavy outdoor sportsmen's shirts). The samples are woolens or blends of wool with other fibers such as rayon, nylon, orlon, or silk. The term woolen is used in a techical sense as opposed to worsted, both products being made from wool but spun according to different systems. Much time and effort went into identifying these samples, but many of the dates are still just approximations. Like the design sheets, the samples are organized by year and range numbers are identified. The range numbers correspond to those on the design sheets making it possible to find the weaving specifications for many of the specific samples. Also included are a few samples from other domestic and foreign mills. Comparing these with Reedsburg's own designs shows that the products of competitors were an important source of ideas for the company's designers.

Dye Records, 1941, 1947, 1954-1963: These records include the results of several dye analysis tests, dye formulas from Reedsburg and other companies, and a large number of dye record cards. The cards are the specifications for raw material and piece dyeing. They show the quantity of material, names of dyes and chemicals used, and amounts. The piece dyeing records also show the style number which corresponds to the range numbers of the fabric samples. Arrangement within each category (raw materials and piece dyeing) is chronological.

Raw Material Samples
Box   76
1939, ca. 1960-1962
Box   77
ca. 1964
Box   78
United Waste Co., 1966-1967
Box   79
1967
Box   80
Lowenthal Co., n.d.
Picking Records
Box   81
Folder   1
1911-1914
Box   81
Folder   2-5
1952-1955 Feb.
Box   82
1955 Feb-1957
Box   83
1959 April 3-Aug 26
Box   84
1959 Sept 8-1960 Jan 26
Box   85
1960 Jan 26-May 11
Box   86
1960 May 11-Aug 31
Box   87
1960 Sept 20-1961 March 3
Box   88
1961 March 4-July 24
Box   89
1961 July 24-1962 Jan 11
Box   90
1962 Jan 27-July 18
Box   91
1962 July 18-1963 Jan 11
Box   92
1963 March-July 15
Box   93
1963 July 16-Oct 15
Box   94
1963 Oct 16-1964 Feb
Box   95
1964 March-June
Box   96
1964 July-Nov
Box   97
1964 Dec-1965 Dec
Carding Blends
In form of roving
Box   98
1952
Box   99
1953
Box   100-103
1954
Box   104
1955
1955-1960
Box   105
6-171
Box   106
173-368
Box   107
370-529
Box   108
530-668
Box   109
670-829
Box   110
834-987
Box   111
1003-1177
Box   112
1181-1365
Box   113
1374-1557
Box   114
1560-1797
Box   115
1807-1997
Box   116
2000-2197
Box   117
2200-2637
Box   118
2644-2967
Box   119
2971-3297
Box   120
3303-3798
Box   121
3802-4996
Box   122
5100-9017
Box   123
n.d.
Yarn Samples
Box   257
ca. 1940's-1950's
Box   124
1958-1960, 1966
Box   125
1966
Box   126
1967, n.d.
Design Sheets
Box   127
1922
Box   127
1924
Box   127
1925
Box   127-129
1926
Box   129
1928
Box   129
1929
Box   129
1930
Box   129-130
1931
Box   130
1932
Box   130
1933
Box   130
1934
Box   130
1935
Box   130
1936
Box   131
1937
Box   131-132
1938
Box   131-133
1939
Box   133-134
1940
Box   134-136
1941
Box   134, 136-137
1942
Box   137-138
1943
Box   138
1944
Box   138-139
1945
Box   138-139
1946
Box   139-140
1948
Box   140
1949
Box   140-141
1950
Box   141
1951
Box   141
1952
Box   141-142
1953
Box   142-143
1954
Box   143-144
1955
Box   144-145
1956
Box   145
1957
Box   145
1958
Box   146
1960
Box   146
1961
Box   146
1962
1963 Sept-1967 March
Box   147
Ranges 1-720
Box   148
Ranges 721-1433
Box   149
Ranges 1434-2094
Box   150
Ranges 6217-6999
Box   151
Ranges 7000-7699
Box   152
Ranges 7700-8399
Box   153
Ranges 8401-8998
Box   154-156
n.d.
Fabric Samples-Reedsburg
Box   258
1877-1878
Box   157
1939
Box   157
1940
Box   259
1940, Men's wear
Box   158
1941
Box   158, 260-261
1942
Box   262
1942, Plaid backs
Box   159, 263
1952
Box   159, 264
1953
Box   159, 265-266
1955
Box   159-160, 265-266
1956
Box   160-164, 267
1957
Box   165-166, 169-170
1958
Box   167
1958, spring
Box   168
1958, fall
Box   169-170,173-177, 268-269
1959
Box   171
1959, spring
Box   172
1959, fall
Box   175-182, 187-189, 268-269
1960
Box   183-184
1960, spring
Box   185-186
1960, fall
Box   177, 187-191
1961
Box   192-194
1962
Box   194-195
1963
Fabric Samples-Other Mills
Box   196
Folder   1
Amana Woolens, 1958-1961
Box   196
Folder   2-4
American Woolen, n.d.
Box   197
Folder   1-2
American Woolen, continued
Box   197
Folder   3-4
Foreign, 1961 & n.d.
Box   198
Folder   1
Wool Institute, Inc.
Box   198
Folder   2-5
Misc., n.d.
Dye Records
Box   199
Folder   1
Dye Analysis, 1941
Box   199
Folder   2
Dye Analysis, ca. 1959
Dye Formulas
Box   199
Folder   3
Sandoz Laboratories, 1947
Box   200
Folder   1
Greigy Co., n.d.
Box   200
Folder   2
Newport Chemical Works, n.d.
Box   200
Folder   3
Garnet Dye Formulas, Reedsburg, n.d.
Box   200
Folder   4
Wool Dye Formulas, Reedsburg, n.d.
Box   200
Folder   5
Woonsocket Color and Chemical Co., n.d.
Dye Record Cards-Raw Materials
Box   201
1954 April-Sept
Box   202
1954 Oct-1955 March
Box   203
1955 April-Aug
Box   204
1955 Aug-1956 Jan
Box   205
1956 Feb-June
Box   206
1956 July-Dec
Box   207
1957 Jan-June
Box   208
1957 July-1958 March
Box   209
1958 April-Sept
Box   210
1958 Oct-1959 April
Box   211
1959 May-Oct
Box   212
1959 Nov-1960 March 16
Box   213
1960 March 17-June
Box   214
1960 July-Dec
Box   215
1961 Jan-May
Box   216
1961 May-Sept
Box   217
1961 Oct-Dec
Box   218
1962 Jan-April
Box   219
1962 May-Aug
Box   220
1962 Aug-Dec
Box   221
1963 Jan-April
Box   222
1963 May-Aug
Dye Record Cards-Piece Dyeing
Box   223
1954 Aug-1955 April
Box   224
1955 May-1956 Feb
Box   225
1956 March-Dec
Box   226
1957 Jan-July
Box   227
1957 Aug-1958 Jan
Box   228
1958 Feb-July
Box   229
1958 Aug-Dec
Box   230
1959 Jan-May
Box   231
1959 June-Sept
Box   232
1959 Oct-1960 April
Box   233
1960 May-Oct
Box   234
1960 Nov-1961 May
Box   235
1961 June-Nov
Box   236
1961 Dec-1962 June
Box   237
1962 July-Dec
Box   238
1963 Nov-Jan