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Cranefield, Frederic (ed.) / Wisconsin horticulture
Vol. I (September 1910/August 1911)

Wisconsin horticulture, vol. 1, no. 3: November, 1910,   pp. [1]-16 PDF (7.5 MB)


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WISCONSIN HORTICULTURE 
November 1910 
    (2) Montmorency and Early Rich- 
 mond are the best kinds to plant. 
 These have been thoroughly tested 
 for years and found reliable. 
    (3) Trees of the kinds mentioned 
 may be purchased this year for thirty 
 to thirty-five cents each, or less in 
 large quantities. One hundred trees 
 might cost thirty-five dollars while 
 lots of five hundred or one thousand 
 may be had at thirty cents each or 
 less. These prices are for two-year- 
 old trees, the best size to plant, f. o. 
 b. shipping point, freight, and usually 
 packing to he paid by buyers.  bhere 
 will be no guarantee to replace, no 
 nonsense about "pollenizing" or horti- 
 cultural experts to trim trees, just a 
 straightforward business deal. Any 
 reliable Wisconsin   nurseryman, or 
 others who advertise in WIScoNSIN 
 H[ORTICULTURE, will sell    at  these 
 prices. We have their word for it. 
   (4) Two or three-year-old cherry 
 trees are most desirable for planting 
 aind( the large gre'vers of trees dis- 
 pose of all stock possible at this age 
 and younger.    Sutcli trees as they 
 cannot sill at that size are heli over 
 and" sold to amniteurs and shyster 
 tree agents to dispose of to the eredu- 
 lous. Note the foilowinig front Ar. 
 Hatch: 
   "Trees fiiur years ili are too big 
 to be profitably planted (,ntless they 
 are call stock <iir seortil size. There 
 is a false notion that large tri 'es at 
 planting will Lear soniier.   Alwv' ays 
 remembler that th, planter must grow 
 and develop bearing wood on his trees 
 before he can get fruit. The wood 
 Ile plants does nit grow fruit at aiy 
 time.  The lie(tring hlalbit is grown 
 into the trees tiftir they are  ni;ited, 
 and not before." 
   We will not gio farther iutt this 
phase of the sut.ibeet at preseint, ex- 
cept to say thatt the State tIortieotl- 
tural Society and the Jiortiicultura l 
Departrient of the Agriculturil Col- 
lege are both ready, willing antd even 
anxious at all times to give, free of 
charge, such    information   as  they 
have or can olbtain regarding fruit 
raising in Wisconsin. 
  We propose., ntxt minth, to pay 
our respwets ti tanother firm which is 
offering fortunes to Wisconsin pdaut- 
ers, probably the Farmers Nursery 
Co., said to Ile located at Miami 
County, Ohio, although we have sev- 
eral on our list of "undesirable citi- 
zens." 
   Don't be frightened, brother horti- 
 culturists, we are not, as facts and 
 the plain truth never yet hurt an 
 honest man or firm     and we shall 
 print only that. 
 INDOOR CULTURE OF HYACINTHS AND 
              NARCISSUS. 
         (Continued from Pagt i) 
 ciently damp so that when the index 
 finger is inserted into the pile, the 
 opening will remain fairly distinct. 
 In the bottom of the pot place pieces 
 of broken pots, charcoal or coarse 
 gravel to provide drainage. In put- 
 ting in the drainage do not (lose the 
 opening in the bottom.      Ilave the 
 1pieces of pots arched over the open- 
 ing rather than filling it. With the 
 six inch pots, four or five pieces of 
 drainage, or an inch of charcoal or 
 gravel will be sufficient. Fill the pot 
 about level full of soil without pack- 
 ing. Next take the bulb and with 
 the fingers make an opening into the 
 soil sufficiently large to receive the 
 bulb. Three or four bulbs may be 
 ,latedi in a pot exCel)t for large-sized 
 ('hinese Sacred Lily. The narcissus 
 should be planted so that just the tip 
 of the neck of the bull) extends above 
 the surface. The hyacinths ruty be 
 plariti d in the sane way. bit are 
 usually pilanted only to ttlii atut e- 
 half to thrun i-iuarters of their hlhith 
 in the soil. Settle the soil by jarring 
 the pot. This can be done without 
 exerting other prcssure and if ther, 
 is an inIs~flicient amount of soil after 
 settling, a suffteient amount to fill 
 within one-half to three-quarters of 
 the fiip it the pot may be added. Do 
 not put in too much soil because 
 over-filled pots are very difficult to 
 water. Do not press the tbulbs into 
 the soil. If this is done when the 
 root system  begins to develop, the 
 bulbs are very likely to be pushed out 
 if the soil which will necessitate re- 
 planting and also cheek the growth. 
 Tle 1  Most imiportant period  in 
 the produetion of good flowers from 
 bulbs is that following the planting. 
 ThIis period is one of root develop- 
 ment anil unless the bIlbs make good 
 roots the flowers will be inferior. As 
soon as the bulbs are planted they 
should lie thoroughly watonrd and 
set away in a cool, dark place; a 
temperature ranging from forty to 
forty-five degrees being the most de- 
sirable.   They should be carried at 
this temperature until a good root 
system has developed. This can easily 
be determined by placing the hand 
over the top of the pot, inverting it, 
tapping lightly ont a board-or corner 
of the table and removing the earth 
ball.   If the exterior of the earth 
ball is covered with roots, then the 
plant has developed sufficiently to be 
brought in for flower production. 
   If the proper temperature has been 
 maintained there will be little or no 
 troulble from top growth. If the tops 
 do begin to grow it is not necessary 
 to bring theit into the light at once. 
 Tops   having   considerable   extent, 
 which will be white when grown in 
 the dark, will turn their proper color 
 in two or three (lays after bringing 
 into the light. During the period in 
 which the roots are developing, little 
 water is necessary.     Just enough 
 slouill be givern to keep the soil well 
 moistened. It will probaltly not tle 
 necess~ary to watter them more than 
 oee a week, a ndi frequently not so 
 often. As st(int as the, roots have de- 
 veloid thif ,pInits nuity lie lbrought 
 ill for forcing. It is well if a number 
 ,)f Ilitnts iri, Ihing grown to bring 
 theti ill at  itiyrvatls  is  this  will pro- 
 vili it succeeessioiin of floweirs. 
   Thew bullis shouhll not lie birotight 
from   the ]low  storage tempteratures 
into tih  high trmiperntttire of a liv- 
ing room iin one ,lianze. It is better 
to Iringitt think into high temperatures 
gradually. Very frequently the buds 
are bllastied bl giving, too high a teyn- 
perature. A biull) (lot's not need high 
temperature, sixty to sixty-five de- 
gret.s being sufficient, antd the flowers 
wxill last much longer than if higher 
tfenireratures are given. The hightir 
qitmi'ratitres, severity to seventy-five 
degrees, give quicker results, hut with 
dlanger of blasting the buds.     The 
bullb needs little care after being 
brought into the light save in the 
riatter of wtter. Water copiously au 
long intervals giving water only when 
the soil indicates that there is a lack 
of moisture. 
  Hyacinths may be forced for more 
than one year, but the narcissus are 
usually so weakened that it i~s ad- 
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