Wisconsin Farmers' Institutes / Wisconsin Farmers' Institutes : a hand-book of agriculture
Bulletin No. 11 (1897)
Coe, R. J.
Raspberries, pp. 37-42 PDF (1.7 MB)
WISCONSIN FPAR ENS' 1NACIUTS and you will sea that the remainini leaves on that plant will turn yellow, and that the plant has received a very serious check, which is something we do not want. We went it to grow every day from the time it starts to grow in the spring, until it ripens in the fall. We make our efforts all along this line, and it is with this in view that we pinch off the top when our raspberries get about eighteen inches high, just the terminal bud. Now, it is, we will say, the Anrst of June, and we have two canes about eighteen inches high. Let us take these two canes and treat them, first, as some treat them, and again, in the manner that I will suggest and see the difference in the crop. Two Xethods of Treating Canes. In the first place we will take this cne and do nothing but cultivate It and aim to keep it growing right along. By August or September, it is way up, seven or eight feet high, and a good deal like a buggy whip. Now, then, the other one; let us pinch this bud off and see what that one does. We see in this cane that we simply pinch off the terminal, in the next two inches below the top there are five or six or seven buds. These cells develop, the top of the cane stretches out, and In less than six inches we have five or six branches, something like an umbrella plant-they grow and keep on growing during the summer-we are talking about black raspberries now; so you see the difference between the two canes by this treatment. Now, let us see what some of the ad- vantages are. RAll along these branches, of course, we have buds pretty close together. Now, the next spring when our two rasp- berry canes begin to grow, these buds along this cane grow out eight or ten inches long and at the end of each one there Is a little cluster of berries. These others do just the same, only there are a great many more buds and there is a bigger crop. Then this cane, as it stands up through the winter, Is exposed to the dry winds of winter, and very likely loses the greater part of its vitality before spring comes. On the other hand this, treated as I sug- gest, has its strong branches. They do not sway back and forth by the winter's winds. They are not high and therefore are not exposed to much ot the winds. Of course they have had the proper summer treatment, and now let us see what that proper sum- ier treatment Is. Summer Treatment In the spring you can very readily see when these canes begin to grow that you will have fruit the whole length of these branches, if allowed to grow. But we do not allow them to grow; we prune them in the spring, taking off the end of the branches, then it will stand up without any tying or staking, and will carry itself well throughout the season. Just as early as the ground will work in the spring we go In there with a corn cultivator and cultivate very thoroughly, shallow, of course, but frequently. We induce as rapid and as strong a growth as we possibly can, and as early in the season as possible, and we do this so as to grow big canes. In the summer time most of the people, farmers at least, and in fact the majority of fruit growers, cultivate their raspberries un. til they begin to ripen, and then they will stop their cultivation. It seems to me that there is where they make a great mistake. Why, if that is right, for the same reason the dairyman would feed his cows first rate until they begin to give milk and then take the feed away from them. You ee at that time our raspberry is doing dou- ble duty; it is growing new canes for the next year's crop, and it is develop- ing its fruit and at the same time rip- ening its seed, the greatest work any plant can do. Our practice has been to cultivate at least twice every week dur- ing the picking season and sometimes three times a week, so as to force a strong growth at this time. If we do uS
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