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Wisconsin Farmers' Institutes / Wisconsin Farmers' Institutes : a hand-book of agriculture
Bulletin No. 11 (1897)

Coe, R. J.
Raspberries,   pp. 37-42 PDF (1.7 MB)

Page 38

and you will sea that the remainini
leaves on that plant will turn yellow,
and that the plant has received a very
serious check, which is something we
do not want. We went it to grow
every day from the time it starts to
grow in the spring, until it ripens in
the fall. We make our efforts all
along this line, and it is with this in
view that we pinch off the top when
our raspberries get about eighteen
inches high, just the terminal bud.
Now, it is, we will say, the Anrst of
June, and we have two canes about
eighteen inches high.  Let us take
these two canes and treat them, first,
as some treat them, and again, in the
manner that I will suggest and see the
difference in the crop.
Two Xethods of Treating Canes.
In the first place we will take this
cne and do nothing but cultivate It and
aim to keep it growing right along.
By August or September, it is way up,
seven or eight feet high, and a good
deal like a buggy whip. Now, then,
the other one; let us pinch this bud off
and see what that one does. We see
in this cane that we simply pinch off
the terminal, in the next two inches
below the top there are five or six or
seven buds. These cells develop, the
top of the cane stretches out, and In
less than six inches we have five or six
branches, something like an umbrella
plant-they grow and keep on growing
during the summer-we are talking
about black raspberries now; so you
see the difference between the two
canes by this treatment.
Now, let us see what some of the ad-
vantages  are.  RAll  along  these
branches, of course, we have buds
pretty close  together.  Now, the
next spring when   our two   rasp-
berry canes begin to grow, these buds
along this cane grow out eight or ten
inches long and at the end of each one
there Is a little cluster of berries.
These others do just the same, only
there are a great many more buds and
there is a bigger crop. Then this cane,
as it stands up through the winter, Is
exposed to the dry winds of winter,
and very likely loses the greater part
of its vitality before spring comes. On
the other hand this, treated as I sug-
gest, has its strong branches. They
do not sway back and forth by the
winter's winds. They are not high
and therefore are not exposed to much
ot the winds. Of course they have
had the proper summer treatment, and
now let us see what that proper sum-
ier treatment Is.
Summer Treatment
In the spring you can very readily
see when these canes begin to grow
that you will have fruit the whole
length of these branches, if allowed to
grow. But we do not allow them to
grow; we prune them in the spring,
taking off the end of the branches, then
it will stand up without any tying or
staking, and will carry itself well
throughout the season. Just as early
as the ground will work in the spring
we go In there with a corn cultivator
and cultivate very thoroughly, shallow,
of course, but frequently. We induce
as rapid and as strong a growth as we
possibly can, and as early in the season
as possible, and we do this so as to
grow big canes. In the summer time
most of the people, farmers at least,
and in fact the majority of fruit
growers, cultivate their raspberries un.
til they begin to ripen, and then they
will stop their cultivation. It seems
to me that there is where they make a
great mistake. Why, if that is right,
for the same reason the dairyman
would feed his cows first rate until
they begin to give milk and then take
the feed away from them. You ee at
that time our raspberry is doing dou-
ble duty; it is growing new canes for
the next year's crop, and it is develop-
ing its fruit and at the same time rip-
ening its seed, the greatest work any
plant can do. Our practice has been to
cultivate at least twice every week dur-
ing the picking season and sometimes
three times a week, so as to force a
strong growth at this time. If we do

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