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Wisconsin State Horticultural Society / The Wisconsin horticulturist: issued monthly, under the management of the Wisconsin State Horticultural Society for the purpose of disseminating the horticultural information collected through the agency of the society
Vol. I, No. 6 (August 1896)

A Delaware vineyard,   pp. 13-16 PDF (793.3 KB)

Page 13

As before stated, I solicited some contributions on grapes
in answer to several inquiries on that subject. Not receiving
any I have concluded to publish the following article read at
the Minnesota ineeting by C'. W. Sampson:
In order to have a successful Delaware vineyard, you must,
in the first place, have the right kind of soil and the right
kind of location. I consider the location the most important
in the raising of the Delaware grape. In this state you should
locate your vineyard on or near a lake or other bodv of water.
The reason for this is that the water in the lake will remain
warm while the atmosphere is cold enough to freeze, and by
locating the vinevard on the south or east of the lake the cold
north wind will blow this warm vapor over your vineyard and
protect it from the frost, both in late spring and early fall.
The severe frosts we had this last spring did not injure my
vines in the least.
I consider the best soil for the Delaware grape in this state
to be a sandv loam, with a heavv clav sub-soil containing a
considerable amount of lime. In preparing the ground for a
vineyard. I would plow very deep and pulverize well. Then
I would mark off the ground and plant the vines 8xS feet, al-
ways running the rows crosswise of the hill to prevent wash-
ing. In setting the vines, I use a spade to make the holes,
which are about one foot deep, one end slanting. I prefer
good, strong one year vines. and I place them in a slanting
position in the hole, so that the vine will easily lav to the
ground. I train them in that way, and we have no difficulty
in laving them down and covering with dirt in the fall. The
first year I set a pole about six feet high, which I allow the
vine to run up. I allow only one bud to grow. In the fall I
cut back to three buds and cover well with dirt, and if the
ground has been kept clean from weeds I put a small forkful
of straw or hay over the roots to keep them from killing the
first winter. This I consider very important.
The second year I put in my posts and at least one wire,
which I train the vines along, allowing only one vine to grow-

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