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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter X: Hat and bonnet linings, and bandeaux,   pp. 110-118 PDF (2.4 MB)

Page 112

few tie-stitches should hold the lining in place near the crown 
top, otherwise it is apt to become slack and untidy. 
   The third method of lining is quite a different one, and is usually 
employed for hats with sectional crowns and for tam-o'-shanters. 
   The material is cut to the same shape as the pieces of the 
crown, e.g. Fig. 5 would require six sectional pieces cut by the 
crown pattern and planned on the material just as the crown 
was, either the warp way or on the cross. No turnings need be 
allowed on the lining as this should be smaller than the outside 
crown. The sections must be finely run or machined together 
in pairs from tip to base, as in the case of the crown, and after 
being pressed, the lining is ready to be slip-stitched inside the 
head-part (Fig. 6). 
   A tam-o'-shanter can be lined in one of three ways, i.e. (a) 
"cap " lining (Fig. 2), (b) a circular lining (Fig. 7), reduced
the head-size by means of eight darts, or (c) a lining cut in two 
circular pieces (Figs. 8 and 8a). Here a 12-in. circle fits up into 
the crown, and a 21-in. wide circular band measuring 12 in. 
diameter at the outer edge lies round the head band. Which- 
ever method is chosen, it is usual, after stitching and pressing 
any darts or seams either to slip-stitch the lining inside the crown 
or to tack it in raw-edged, and finish neatly with a cross-cut 
band of lining. 
   BONNET LININGS (MATRON'S).-These are usually cut 
in two pieces and made up as in Method 2, except that the crown 
piece is either a horseshoe shape or the same shape as the bonnet 
crown, and it is slip-stitched to the shape at the centre back. 
The strip for banding the shape is cut just the length of the 
bonnet-band, and is sewn from ear to car, the ends being slip- 
stitched along the arch at the back to meet the crown piece. 
The draw ribbon is tied at the centre of the front, the ends in 
the slot being stitched to the back of the bonnet. 
   CHILDREN'S BONNET LININGS.-Stiff shapes are lined 
in the same way as matron's bonnets, but washing-bonnets and 
those having soft crowns have the linings cut and made from the 

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