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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery
(1922)
Chapter X: Hat and bonnet linings, and bandeaux, pp. 110-118
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Page 112
MILLINERY few tie-stitches should hold the lining in place near the crown top, otherwise it is apt to become slack and untidy. The third method of lining is quite a different one, and is usually employed for hats with sectional crowns and for tam-o'-shanters. The material is cut to the same shape as the pieces of the crown, e.g. Fig. 5 would require six sectional pieces cut by the crown pattern and planned on the material just as the crown was, either the warp way or on the cross. No turnings need be allowed on the lining as this should be smaller than the outside crown. The sections must be finely run or machined together in pairs from tip to base, as in the case of the crown, and after being pressed, the lining is ready to be slip-stitched inside the head-part (Fig. 6). A tam-o'-shanter can be lined in one of three ways, i.e. (a) "cap " lining (Fig. 2), (b) a circular lining (Fig. 7), reduced to the head-size by means of eight darts, or (c) a lining cut in two circular pieces (Figs. 8 and 8a). Here a 12-in. circle fits up into the crown, and a 21-in. wide circular band measuring 12 in. diameter at the outer edge lies round the head band. Which- ever method is chosen, it is usual, after stitching and pressing any darts or seams either to slip-stitch the lining inside the crown or to tack it in raw-edged, and finish neatly with a cross-cut band of lining. BONNET LININGS (MATRON'S).-These are usually cut in two pieces and made up as in Method 2, except that the crown piece is either a horseshoe shape or the same shape as the bonnet crown, and it is slip-stitched to the shape at the centre back. The strip for banding the shape is cut just the length of the bonnet-band, and is sewn from ear to car, the ends being slip- stitched along the arch at the back to meet the crown piece. The draw ribbon is tied at the centre of the front, the ends in the slot being stitched to the back of the bonnet. CHILDREN'S BONNET LININGS.-Stiff shapes are lined in the same way as matron's bonnets, but washing-bonnets and those having soft crowns have the linings cut and made from the 112
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