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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VII: Covering shapes,   pp. 78-92 PDF (2.2 MB)

Page 85

   After making and sewing in the head-lining (see p. 110), the 
covering is completed. 
   Stretched coverings of diaphanous materials such as tulle, 
net, georgette, etc., are better put on in two or three-fold 
material, even when the undercovering is well padded; but if 
a transparent effect is wanted, the covering is put as thinly as 
possible over a shape of either stiff net, leno, or wire. Mourning 
crape, cr~pe-de-Chine and such fabrics of rather thicker substance 
than tulle are used singly. 
1. To give variety, cords or fine wire are often inserted midway 
between the head-part and the edges of the upper-brim covering, 
and at the edge of the under-brim piece as well as at the top and 
bottom of the side-band; these are visibly sewn to the shape by 
means of stab-stitches and obviate the necessity for slip-stitching. 
   2. The edges of the brim-covering pieces may be left unturned 
and simply stab-stitched through the shape, I in. to 1 in. inside 
the brim-edge, and a crosscut binding of piece silk, velvet or 
other material be slip-stitched over the edge. In arranging for 
this, measure the exact length of the brim-edge, cut a 2-in. wide 
crossway strip of material, join it in the round, slip it over 
the hat brim, pin it in position, turn in each edge evenly and 
slip-stitch to the upper- and under-brim respectively. 
   3. Either the upper- or the under-brim covering may be turned 
over the edge of the shape, the other brim-piece being tacked to 
the shape, raw edged, and finished off neatly with either a crosscut 
fold or a shaped facing of " self" material or of a contrasting
colour which is piped or has the edges turned in and plainly 
slip-stitched to the edge of the brim. 
   4. The whole or part of the under-brim covering may be cut in 
a contrasting colour, or a material of different texture from that 
used for covering the remainder of the shape, e.g. an upper 
covering of stretched silk or satin, and an under-brim of stretched 
velvet; or the upper covering of dark velvet and the under-brim 
of a brighter shade of satin or silk. Cloth is frequently used to 

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