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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VII: Covering shapes,   pp. 78-92 PDF (2.2 MB)

Page 84

under-brim to shape along the outer edge, keeping the folded edges 
of the material upper- and under-brims quite level, and in doing 
the slip-stitching take the longer stitch into the loose material 
and short ones into the brim-edge (Fig. 5). If the crown of the 
hat is turned downwards, and the edge of the brim is held towards 
the worker, control can be exercised over the work, and a smooth 
edge should be the outcome. When the slip-stitching is com- 
pleted, fasten the thread firmly by a few stitches taken backwards 
into the upper-brim covering. 
    An amateur usually experiences difficulty in obtaining a 
perfectly smooth and invisibly-stitched edge and is inclined to 
push forward any fullness that accumulates in the under-brim 
piece, hoping to dispose of it later rather than by coaxing the 
material a little towards the needle and turning it in a trifle 
more all round the edge, and so lessening the size of its circum- 
ference. Some milliners prefer to finish the outer edge of the 
brim before cutting or finishing the head-oval. In that case, 
after the outer edge is slip-stitched cut away the material inside 
the head-part to within I in. of the fitting-line, snip this ½ in.
slantwise at intervals almost to the fitting-line, turn the notches 
up inside the crown, and stab-stitch through to it. 
    If the crown is a plainly fitting one, tack a piece of head- 
lining inside the crown of the shape, and then carefully fit on the 
crown covering. Pin it well to the shape just over the crown 
turn (Fig. 4), stab-stitch it flat through the side-band, then pare 
away all unnecessary turnings. 
   To prevent an ugly ridge showing at the top and base of the 
side-band, cut a piece of fine soft muslin to the shape and depth 
of the crown-band without allowance for turnings, and strain 
flatly round and tack to the shape before the outer covering band 
is fitted on. Join the covering band of material by carefully 
back-stitching the ends together, open out and flatten the seam, 
ease it over the crown and pin it in position, turn in the lower 
edge and slip-stitch lightly round the head-part, then turn in the 
upper edge and slip-stitch down (Fig. 6). 

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