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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VI: The cutting of materials and making of folds, pipings, and bows, etc., on the cross,   pp. 67-77 PDF (2.0 MB)

Page 72

is drawn into the tube, the material being eased slightly by 
drawing up the gathering thread, thus giving a rucked effect 
as in Fig. 16. 
   Bows OF PIECE MATERIAL are made of silk, satin, velvet, 
crepe, and many other materials. With the exception, perhaps, 
of tulle, very thin chiffon, ninon, lisse, and muslin, these materials 
are all arranged more gracefully into bows if cut on the cross. 
   When a length exceeding one crossway strip of material is 
required, two or more pieces must be joined together as shown 
in Fig. 7. If the bow is being made of velvet the edges may be 
turned over once and caught down lightly on the wrong side 
with " catch " or " cat "-stitch (Fig. 17), or if the
velvet is thin 
and can be neatly rolled, the edges can be turned over twice to 
form a tiny rolled hem, and then catch-stitched, or roll-hemmed 
(Figs. 17 and 18), according to the type of bow being made. 
The strip can either be hemmed along both sides, and across the 
ends after the selvedge has been cut off; or the ends may be 
mitred or lined (Figs. 19 and 20). Taffeta silk and other materials 
that are the same on both sides of the fabric are usually roll- 
hemmed on to the right side of the trimming piece. The tiny 
rolled hem makes a neat edge to the bow, and the small stitches 
taken through the material when the hem is slip-stitched will 
be on the wrong side of the trimming. 
   To form a mitred end, fold the long pointed end of material 
over so that A touches C, the fold lying between B and D (Fig. 
21). Either back-stitch, or run and back-stitch, from C to B, 
taking stitching well inside the selvedges (Fig. 22). Turn the 
mitred end inside out, taking great care to form a true point, 
and then either catch-stitch or slip-stitch from D to C (Fig. 19). 
   An end may be lined with the same material as that used 
for the bow, or a contrast in either colour or fabric may be chosen. 
A velvet end is often lined with silk or georgette, while one of 
millinery cloth may have a lining of velvet. Cut the lining to 
the same shape and the same " way " of the material as the 
piece being lined. Unless the selvedge way of lining and trimming 

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