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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery
(1922)
Chapter VI: The cutting of materials and making of folds, pipings, and bows, etc., on the cross, pp. 67-77
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Page 72
MILLINERY is drawn into the tube, the material being eased slightly by drawing up the gathering thread, thus giving a rucked effect as in Fig. 16. Bows OF PIECE MATERIAL are made of silk, satin, velvet, crepe, and many other materials. With the exception, perhaps, of tulle, very thin chiffon, ninon, lisse, and muslin, these materials are all arranged more gracefully into bows if cut on the cross. When a length exceeding one crossway strip of material is required, two or more pieces must be joined together as shown in Fig. 7. If the bow is being made of velvet the edges may be turned over once and caught down lightly on the wrong side with " catch " or " cat "-stitch (Fig. 17), or if the velvet is thin and can be neatly rolled, the edges can be turned over twice to form a tiny rolled hem, and then catch-stitched, or roll-hemmed (Figs. 17 and 18), according to the type of bow being made. The strip can either be hemmed along both sides, and across the ends after the selvedge has been cut off; or the ends may be mitred or lined (Figs. 19 and 20). Taffeta silk and other materials that are the same on both sides of the fabric are usually roll- hemmed on to the right side of the trimming piece. The tiny rolled hem makes a neat edge to the bow, and the small stitches taken through the material when the hem is slip-stitched will be on the wrong side of the trimming. To form a mitred end, fold the long pointed end of material over so that A touches C, the fold lying between B and D (Fig. 21). Either back-stitch, or run and back-stitch, from C to B, taking stitching well inside the selvedges (Fig. 22). Turn the mitred end inside out, taking great care to form a true point, and then either catch-stitch or slip-stitch from D to C (Fig. 19). An end may be lined with the same material as that used for the bow, or a contrast in either colour or fabric may be chosen. A velvet end is often lined with silk or georgette, while one of millinery cloth may have a lining of velvet. Cut the lining to the same shape and the same " way " of the material as the piece being lined. Unless the selvedge way of lining and trimming 72
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