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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur
(1909)
Glossary of millinery and dry goods terms, pp. 248-256 ff.
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Page 248
Glossary of Millinery and Dry Goods Terms. Agrafe.-A clasp or ornament of metal for millinery purposes. Aigrette.-A stiff plume. Sometimes erroneously applied to "egret," which see. Ajour.-Open work effect. Also ap- plied to a cotton braid used in the making of women's hats. Alencon (Point d').-Fine needle-point lace with ground of double-twist thread in a semi-net effect. Usually worked with horse-hair to give firm- nes to the cordonnet. Allover.-Embroideries or lace mate- rials in which the design or pattern extends over the entire surface of the fabric in contradistinction to edges and insertions. Amazon (Plume).-A long soft Ostrich feather. Angleterre (Point d').-Fine Brussels pillow lace distinguished by a rib of raised and plaited threads worked in the lace. Antique. Imitation of silk stuffs of former centuries. Antwerp. Bobbin lace resembling early Alenvon. Shows a "pot" or basket effect in design. Appliqud.-Materials cut out and sewed, embroidered or pasted on other materials. Arabian (Point d').-Coarse bobbin lace, made in Belgium, France. and Arabia. Large pattern cable edged, and almost invariably in deep ecru tone. Argentine.-Similar to Alengon, mesh being larger. Armure.-A chain weave in which the threads are thrown in alternating small pebbled design. Used-in silks and dress goods. Arras.-Strong, white, bobbin lace re- sembling Mechlin. Distinguished by light single thread ground. Areophane.-A thin crepe like mate- rial. Armossin.--Same as Armure. Art Nouveau.-New Art (Ornaments). Aurillao.-Bobbin lace which resem- bles Angleterre. Ave Maria. A narrow edging. Baby Lace.-Light and simple edging made in England. Bandeau.-A band or part of a band placed in the headsize of a hat to raise part or the whole of it. Barr4.-Materials having stripes or bars running across the cloth pro- duced by various processes of weav- ing or printing. Barrette,-Bar ornament for hair or headdress. Basket Weave.--Style of weave in which the plaited work of a basket is reproduced by the pattern. Batiste.-A fine cotton muslin having a good deal of dressing, resembling lawn, the difference being that batiste is slightly heavier. Battenburg.-A modern lace of braid and stitches. Same as Renaissance. Bayadbre.-Designs which run across the material, whether ribbons, laces, dress goods or silks. Bayadbre Moird.-Same as above, with watered effect. Bayeux.-Bobbin lace in imitation of Spanish point. Also black, rich lace, made for shawls, etc. Bdbd.-Baby.-The narrowest ribbon. Beaver.-A thick woolen cloth weave similar to doeskin. The wrong side is finished with a soft, thick nap. In hats on Plaques, a long nap fur thrown on bodies of wool and fur telt. Bedford Cord.-A weave used in dress goods similar to cotton pique, con- sisting of heavy ribs running lengt h- wise in the fabric. A straw braid in rough effect for making hats. Beige. Dress fabrics of smooth tex- ture produced by using yarn in which the colors are mixed. Alsoa term applied to a color near shade of wood. Bengaline. A plain, round, corded weave of silk and wool in which the wool is used as a filling covered by the silk. Smooth in surface, small in grain. Beret.-A flat cap.-(Basque Peas- ants). Used as crown for wide brim hats. Bijou. Jewel. Binche.-Fine pillow lace, without cor- donnet. Ground resembles spider web with small dots. Bissette.-Coarse, narrow French Peas- ant lace, simple designs. Name applied to cheap bordering laces. Blanche.-White. Bluet.-Corn flower. Blonde Lace.-Lace made of un- bleached silk. Nets in cotton or silk that are unbleached or cream colored. Bobbin Bone Point Lace.-Applied to laces having no regular ground or mesh as Renaissance. Bobbinet or Brussels.-Machine-made cotton or silk netting in which a hexagonal figure is produced by twisting the thread. Body Hats.-Hats of various straws pleated in one piece, shape of un- 248
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