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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter X: Hat and bonnet linings, and bandeaux,   pp. 110-118 PDF (2.4 MB)

Page 111

home use a 2-yd. or 3-yd. length is probably the most economical 
to buy as there are only two corner-pieces to be considered. 
   PREPARATION OF LINING.-A hat or cap with a soft 
crown usually has the lining made up separately on the " cap "
method, i.e. a small circular or oval piece, about 3 in. or 3 in. X 
4 in. is tacked to soft leno muslin, then joined to a strip 5 in. to 
6 in. deep, and the head-size in length. The long strip is joined 
together in a round (Fig. 1) and the quarters marked with pins ; 
it is then pinned to the quarters of the tiny circular or oval 
piece.   The lining is set to the centre piece in small pleats 
and run together (Fig. 2), the outer raw edge being turned in 
I in., and either pinned or tacked ready for slip-stitching into 
the hat. 
   A hat with a blocked or stiffly-made crown is usually lined 
with two separate pieces (a) a circular or oval piece of the shape 
and size of the top of crown and fastened inside the crown with 
tiny stitches through the shape or with gum: (b) a strip the 
width of the crown with 2 in. added for turnings, and in length 
equal to that round the crown. The long crown-band strip has 
a narrow hem turned along one edge (Fig. 3) which is pinned down, 
and then held in place by small running stitches, forming a slot 
for a narrow China drawing-ribbon. 
   The end of the lining is turned over and pinned at the centre 
back of head-part of hat (Fig. 4); the cross-cut lower edge is 
then sewn to the hat just below the headline with a head-lining 
stitch, i.e. a short upright stiteh taken into the crown-band, but 
not through it, or with a stab-stitch. 
   It is not easy at first to put a head lining in, for it must be 
set in quite flat, and a true line must be kept round the head. 
The lining sets better if slightly stretched by the left hand while 
it is being sewn in, especially near the front of the hat, where 
the greatest difficulty is met. The ends of lining should overlap 
'in. at the back, where one end is slip-stitched to the other. 
The ribbon inserted through the slot is then drawn up to fit 
nicely round the top of the crown, and tied in a neat bow. A 

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