Page View
Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery
(1922)
Chapter X: Hat and bonnet linings, and bandeaux, pp. 110-118
PDF (2.4 MB)
Page 111
HAT AND BONNET LININGS, ETC. home use a 2-yd. or 3-yd. length is probably the most economical to buy as there are only two corner-pieces to be considered. PREPARATION OF LINING.-A hat or cap with a soft crown usually has the lining made up separately on the " cap " method, i.e. a small circular or oval piece, about 3 in. or 3 in. X 4 in. is tacked to soft leno muslin, then joined to a strip 5 in. to 6 in. deep, and the head-size in length. The long strip is joined together in a round (Fig. 1) and the quarters marked with pins ; it is then pinned to the quarters of the tiny circular or oval piece. The lining is set to the centre piece in small pleats and run together (Fig. 2), the outer raw edge being turned in I in., and either pinned or tacked ready for slip-stitching into the hat. A hat with a blocked or stiffly-made crown is usually lined with two separate pieces (a) a circular or oval piece of the shape and size of the top of crown and fastened inside the crown with tiny stitches through the shape or with gum: (b) a strip the width of the crown with 2 in. added for turnings, and in length equal to that round the crown. The long crown-band strip has a narrow hem turned along one edge (Fig. 3) which is pinned down, and then held in place by small running stitches, forming a slot for a narrow China drawing-ribbon. The end of the lining is turned over and pinned at the centre back of head-part of hat (Fig. 4); the cross-cut lower edge is then sewn to the hat just below the headline with a head-lining stitch, i.e. a short upright stiteh taken into the crown-band, but not through it, or with a stab-stitch. It is not easy at first to put a head lining in, for it must be set in quite flat, and a true line must be kept round the head. The lining sets better if slightly stretched by the left hand while it is being sewn in, especially near the front of the hat, where the greatest difficulty is met. The ends of lining should overlap 'in. at the back, where one end is slip-stitched to the other. The ribbon inserted through the slot is then drawn up to fit nicely round the top of the crown, and tied in a neat bow. A ill
Based on date of publication, this material is presumed to be in the public domain.| For information on re-use, see http://digital.library.wisc.edu/1711.dl/Copyright