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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter X: Hat and bonnet linings, and bandeaux,   pp. 110-118 PDF (2.4 MB)

Page 110

T HE materials in general use for linings are sarcenet, thin 
      Japanese silk, polonaise, soft muslin, cotton head-lining, or 
imitation sarcenet, and cotton net. The material for the head 
lining should be suitable for the hat. A dark-coloured straw, 
felt, or hovered shape would be lined with either sarcenet or 
Japanese silk of the same colour as the hat or bonnet ; or with 
black sarcenet. A light-coloured shape would be lined with silk 
the same shade, or with white sarcenet. 
   A tailored hat of tweed, etc., would be lined with polonaise 
of the nearest shade obtainable to the colour of the cloth. For 
a child's hat, a soft washable muslin might be chosen, as also 
for a transparent hat of lace, chiffon, tulle, etc., or one of cotton 
net. A head lining should be soft in nature and smooth, so that 
it is comfortable and easily slipped over the hair. 
   Polonaise is stouter than sarcenet and more suitable for 
   pull-on " and " knock-about" hats. Sarcenet and its cotton
imitation are usually 20 in. in width and, when cut on the cross, the 
strip is long enough to line the average sized head-part of a 
   Linings are cut either (a) on the cross, (b) selvedge way of 
goods, or (c) to the shape of the crown. 
   Many milliners cut the whole piece of lining into lengths of 
about 25 in. selvedge way, and then cut each width into four 
strips, so obtaining four linings 5 in. wide from a 25 in. piece. 
Others cut the lining on the cross, and join many strips into one 
length, making it into a roll ready for use. Others use the first 
corner-piece for bonnet linings, and then cut off crossway strips 
of convenient width for the average crown depth. For class and 

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