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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter IX: Lining, binding and facing brims,   pp. 105-109 PDF (2.9 MB)

Page 106

muslin. The methods of cutting and preparing them are stated 
in detail in Chapter VII. 
    The gathers may be put in singly and at equal distances 
apart, or they may be arranged in groups, forming shirring 
(Fig. 1), or shell shirring (Fig. 2), where one or more tucks are 
gathered in a waved line. Tiny tucks are pretty arranged either 
singly or in groups of three, and a waved gathering either on the 
outer edge of a brim lining, or on the edges of the tucks. Fig. 3 
is also a pretty variation. In arranging for this waved gathering, 
tack two or more tucks at even distances apart, run the gather- 
ing thread in a waved line as shown, being careful to take the 
thread over the edge of the tuck at the highest point of each 
scallop. Another favourite method of lining is by gathers and 
tucks arranged in alternate groups. Tucked and gathered linings 
are set more evenly into the head-part by means of tiny pleats 
than they are with gathers. Take out the tacking thread, and 
draw up the gathering thread to the size required. 
   NARRow LACE, RIBBON, ETC.-Lace edging or ribbon, I in. 
to 1 in. in width, gathered along one edge, and sewn round and 
round in the same way as straw plait, i.e. from the outer edge of 
brim to the head-part, is another pretty method of lining a hat 
   BINDINGS.-These are made of cross-cut materials such as 
velvet and silk, and also of ribbon. Perhaps the most satisfac- 
tory method of binding a brim-edge of either felt or straw is that 
of first making a simple fold (see Chapter VI, Fig. 11). 
   Method 1.-Cut crossway strips of material and join them to 
fit round the hat brim quite tightly; then lace-stitch the edges 
to make a fold 1 in. to 2 in. in width; stretch this evenly to fit 
over the edge of the brim and form a plain binding, which must 
be caught down to the brim here and there to keep the fold in 
place. This method is unsuitable for wider bindings. 
   Method 2.-Cut crossway strips - in. to 2½ in. in width and 
join them neatly to the length required; pin the strip round 
the brim-edge quite tightly to ascertain the exact length required. 

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