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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VIII: Straw working,   pp. 93-104 PDF (2.1 MB)

Page 101

   Method 3.-A third method of straw working or wiring is 
suitable only when the plait has a double inner edge, through 
which fine filet wire can be threaded (Fig. 7). The flat brilliant 
satin plaits are woven in this way. 
   A pattern of the brim is prepared in stiff paper-at any rate 
by the amateur worker-and each row of straw is measured care- 
fully by this, every ring being cut and joined separately. The 
outer edge of the brim-pattern is measured and the first length 
of plait cut several inches longer than the actual measurement 
of the pattern ; the cut ends of plait are then carefully inter- 
laced from the back and sewn together invisibly to keep them 
in position. The joining or splicing must extend about 1 2 in. to 
make it quite firm. 
   Wire of the same shade as the plait is inserted through the 
folded inner edge, and then carefully joined to the size of the 
pattern. Each succeeding ring is measured and joined to fit 
within the previous one, until the head-part is reached. These 
rings are then sewn firmly together to form the brim (Fig. 8). 
Two or four cross support-wires are measured and bent to shape 
as explained in Chapter IV on wire-shape making, and these 
wires make a platform for the crown as well as a support for the 
brim. They are usually of fine lace wire which is threaded in 
and out of the plait across the brim width, and so are not at all 
noticeable in wear. 
    The length of plait used for the crown may also be threaded 
along the inner edge with wire and then worked to shape in the 
hand, as in Method 2, the wire assisting in the easing and spring- 
ing of the plait; this method requires more than one ring of 
wire, but, as the extra wire is liable to weight the hat, it is better 
omitted if possible. 
    The crown- and brim-pieces must be well sewn together round 
the head-part and a second row of plait be stitched under the 
outer edge of the brim to give it firmness and finish. 
    The last two methods of working plait are most economical, 
there being no necessity to add a lining to the brim if the straw 

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