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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VII: Covering shapes,   pp. 78-92 PDF (2.2 MB)

Page 80

 VELVET.-After obtaining a correct pattern of all parts of the 
 shape, as described in a previous chapter, place these carefully 
 on the material chosen, with due regard to (a) cross, (b) shade, 
 (c) sheen, (d) pile, (e) twill, (f) cord or stripe, as they occur. The 
 method of planning on velvct is shown in Fig. 1, where the two 
 brim patterns, i.e. the upper and under, the side-band and top 
 of crown, are all arranged so that the dark shade, or the way 
 against the pile, being the richer one, will be seen from the front 
 of the hat when covered. Fig. 1 shows the best and most eco- 
 nomical way of "laying " the pattern of a simple flat hat-shape
 when the velvet is about 20 in. wide; turnings of I in. arc 
 required round the outer edges of all patterns and 3 in. within 
 the head-part of the upper-brim piece ; if the under-brim piece 
 is left uncut at the head-part until after fitting, this process will 
 be simplified in the covering. 
   Lillikin or steel pins or needles are the least likely to mark 
the material; these should be carefully used, and only a small 
piece of the velvet be taken on the pin. The centre points, both 
back and front, should be chalked on the turnings of the material. 
If the patterns are planned on the wrong side of the goods, the 
outline may be lightly chalked round each piece of the pattern- 
which will certainly be a guide for amateur cutters. 
   When the side-band of a shape is uncurved the piece for 
covering it is simply a cross-cut strip. The joining in this case 
is less noticeable when made diagonally, e.g. that shown in Fig. 4, 
Chapter III, is preferable to that shown in Fig. 1 where it is 
When the material used has either a twill or a grain on the surface, 
the patterns are planned as in Fig. 2; the twill or grain will then 
run from front to back of the shape when the pieces are fitted. 
   The grain of crape runs in the opposite direction to the twill 
of silk, etc., and this must be noted when planning. The shade, 
or sheen, on the surface of satin should be planned to look richer 

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