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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VI: The cutting of materials and making of folds, pipings, and bows, etc., on the cross,   pp. 67-77 PDF (2.0 MB)

Page 77

sarcenet, place the net rounds upon it, draw up the gathering 
thread and tie the ends (Fig. 30). Commencing at the outer 
edge of foundation, with the neatly-covered side away from you, 
arrange and sew the material round the outer edge, taking small 
stitches at the back of the foundation and longer ones in front 
to secure the material in place (Fig. 30). Ease the material suffi- 
ciently for it to fall in soft flutes as it is arranged round and 
round the foundation towards the centre. Each succeeding row 
of gathered material covers the raw edges of its predecessor, and 
the tip of the centre can be drawn down a little among the folds 
of the last row, so that when complete the rosette is quite neat 
and compact (Fig. 31). 
    Single silk, either roll-hemmed or French-hemmed along the 
 outer edge, is often used for this type of rosette. Narrow lace, 
 ribbon, or soft straw are sometimes used in conjunction with 
 the single silk, the outer edge of which is turned over once to 
 the right side, and the lace, ribbon or straw run lightly over it, 
 after which the inner edge of the silk is gathered on to a net 
 foundation as described above. Another variety of such a 
 rosette has the edge blanket-stitched or outlined with overcasting 
 stitch worked in fine wool, fibrone or silk. 
    A neat little rosette edged with shell-shaped shirring is pretty 
for infants' and children's millinery. The upper edge of the 
material is rolled over twice to form a narrow hem, and the 
gathering is worked in a " shell "- or " scallop "-shaped
the needle being taken over the folded edge of the hem during 
the gathering process (Fig. 32). The ends are cut and hemmed, 
and the long edge is gathered in the usual way, but before the 
material is sewn on to the net foundation the shell-shirred edge 
should be thrown into points by being slightly eased on to the 
gathering thread. A strip of material measuring about 11 yds. in 
length will be required for a small rosette sewn to a 1-in. wide 
foundation as in Fig. 31. 

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