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      "PLATEAUX" AND "FLAMSO           131 
by herring-bone open work of twist; (03) turned 
in as a hem and a narrow ruche sewn on. 
  Quillings and Ruches are formed by (x) 
gathering, or (2) pleating the material at one 
edge for quillings (Diags. XXXVII. and 
XXXVIII.), at the centre (Diag. XXXIX.) 
for ruches. 
     "PLATEAUX" AND "FLAMS" 
  These may be twisted into various shapes, 
and used to form parts of shapes. 
  Plateaux can be arranged to form (i) a 
"Tam " (Diag. XL.); (2) a child's bonnet (Diag. 
XLI.); (3) the crown of a toque (Diag. XLII.); 
(4) the crown of a bonnet (Diag. XLIII.). 
  Flams can be so pleated that (i) a toque 
(Diag. XLIV.); (2) a picture hat (Diag. XLV.); 
(3) a mushroom (Diag. XLVI.); (4) a Napoleon 
(Diag. XLVII.); (5) a tricorne (Diag. L.); (6) 
a marquise (Diag. LII.); (7) a boat shape (Diag. 
LIII.), or (8) a Victorian (Diag. XLIX.); and 
(9) a Marie Stuart (Diag. XLVIII.) bonnet can 
be evolved. 
  Diag. LI. shows method of wiring flarm prior 
to bending into a tricorne. 
  In the ordinary way these should be wired 
with a fine silk wire the colour of shape, so as 
to support and retain in form any section re- 
quired to flute, etc.