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CHAPTER IX 
         LINING, BINDING AND FACING BRIMS 
H ATS, toques, turbans and bonnets may require a lining 
     either to finish or to soften the under or upturned brim. 
   PLAIN LININGs.-Linings when cut quite plainly and to the 
shape of the brim are usually of velvet, silk, satin or georgette. 
A paper pattern of the shape is obtained as described in 
Chapter III. The material is cut, fixed and sewn as explained 
in Chapter VI on " Plain Coverings." 
   When a hat-brim of rough straw is to be lined, it is better to 
tack an interlining of leno or domette over the brim before cover- 
ing it with the brim lining, as otherwise the roughness of the 
straw may spoil the finished effect. Another method is to tack 
the leno or domette to the silk or other thin covering material, 
and make them up together. 
   CROSS-CUT AND RIBBON LININGs.-A brim may be lined with a 
cross-cut strip of material or with ribbon, and in the latter case 
the outer edge of lining will be quite plain at the brim edge, but 
must be set in small pleats round the head-part. Cut the lining 
½ in. longer than the outer edge of the brim, allowing for width 
about if in. greater than the widest measure of brim taken from 
edge to head-part. Join the lining piece neatly on the wrong 
side by running the ends together I in. from the ends, pin the 
lining to the quarters of the under-brim along the outer edge, 
and either slip-stitch or pipe it to the hat over a fine cord or 
wire. Draw the fullness well down to the head-part where it 
should be set in tiny pleats secured by stab-stitches through the 
crown and just below the headline. 
   GATHERED, PLEATED AND CORDED LiNINGs.-These look the 
most dainty when of chiffon, georgette, aerophane, fine silk or 
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