Page 46

The Ladies' Home Journal for June 1903
Rubens' Infant Shirt
A Word to Mothers
T e R :t!,  S  t , a  im,  - *eptselsei
r'  I' .  ..  ,e  ':no Cut  K.  I It fo ''.i IIpl.-
:ecu:on to lungs and abdomitei, thus preeiting
colds and coughs, so fatal toa gieat tany children.
Get the Rubens Shirt at once. Take no other, io
matter What an- unprogressire dea let may say. If
he doesn't keep it write to us. The Rubens Shirt
has gladdened the hearts of thousands of mothers.
We want it accessible to all the world.
The Rubens Shirt is made in cotton, merino (half
wool and half cotton), wool, silk and vool and all
,  o fitf1in htosixvears  datl1  Gods
Marrofactured by
FUBE'iS & MARBLE. 90 Market St., Chicago, Ill.
Coward
"Good Sense"
Shoe
For Perfect Feet
f        .r - i              Bold nohe.re ...
JAMES S. COWARD, 6         *".27   :. htr-t. aw
BROADCLOTH
AND WAISTINGS
HUALF PRRIC,4
WHEN YOU LOOK OVER
C.S.COU   Jr. &dO.
-.
C. S. COURTENAY Jr. & CO.
P T.S A 1, k kTk P
HE wisdom of
buying the
cheaper grade of
fabrics, especially in
the washable cotton
goods, for children's
clothes is open to
argument. On the
one hand there is thle
question of the ra-
pidity with which
childfren's clothes are
-utgrown, which
sometimes makes it
seem not worth while
to invest very much
in the material, while
onl the other hand there is the advantage of
buying materials of good quality as they stand
the wear and tear.
For the very " littlest " people it does not
seem possible to improve upon the well-
known and well-tried model of the simple
Mother Hubbard gown.
For the warm days of summer it is more
cumYfortable to have the little dresses with
:<vband collars or without any. collars at
al'!, finishing the neck in a round or square
hape, with either hands of insertion or
shiaped appliqub bands of the material.
T HE adaptability of dresses of good miate-
r ial to remodeling should also be taken into
-nsideration, as when the material is good
-metimes two old dresses may be made into
neTi new one. This combination of materials
, made possible by the fashions of the day
in which so many different materials are
combined; also because the guimpes which
are bieing worn by children are now made
deeper and show more than thle guimpes of
the past, which often were small affairs, only
taking the place of an under yoke, and rather
a shallow one at that. The new guimipes
nin the front to within almost an inch or
o of the waist-line. The entire sleeves and
-I-bodice of the gown are cut in a peasant
rdle fashion, which is attached across the
ulders by the merest straps.
FOR the guimpes for little girlsto wear with
Ftheir biest dresses, all-over embroidered
!n: slin is used, or dotted Swiss; and to the
gu;impes are attached the deep berthas, or
cshaped collars, now so much the vogue for
children. These berthas, or Collars, which
fall over the edge of the bodice of the gown,
instead of, as was formerly the fashion, being
attached to the gown, are now made to edge
the yokes of the guimpes. Very prtti
: impes are made entirely of alternate stril-
colored and plain material, as, for instan<
trip of organdy and nainsook, or a strip Jf
:ghamn and linen. The strips may be
ned by narrow beading or lace insertion,
..t,-stitched together, or simply lapped and
stitched in ordinary seam fashion.
THE strapping of two materials together is
Tmuch used in other garments for children,
particularly on coats. The coats for the
,maller children are cut either in a straight
Ib..x pattern or in a circular bodied one set on
a shallow yoke, the body oif the coat itself
bei--ng formed entirely of alternating strips of
,;:fierent materials. Of course, in garments
f! this kind almost any variety of combination
:,;y be used, braid and silk joined by lace
i-,ertion making a pretty one. A touch of
- .:,)r may be introduced in this way, or if the
,trapping is all white and formed of strips of
,organdy and lace, an underlining of pale pink
or blue in lawn, gingham or silk may be
used. Such coats are almost always finished
with fancy cape collars reaching quite to the
waist-line in the back and front.
WITH these coatsof the thinner materials,
Wand indeed, too, with the coats of l ight-
weight cloths, thin washable hats of organdy
and Swiss are worn. For the smaller chil-
diren the bonnet-shaped capls are preferred,
with full face ruffles of fine material, plaited
anud edged either with lace or a fine gauze
r;Ibbon with a picot edge. Such hats are
c ,rded, and very light in) weight. For more
dressy wear point d'esprit hats trimmed with
sprays of small flowers, or rosettes of fine
bab y ribbon, are used. For play and practi-
cal purposes the washable piqu6 hats, which
have full Tam a Shanter crowns buttoning
1,1 to the brims, are much liked for the reason
,.;t they may be taken apart when it is neces-
rv to launder them. Especially for the
ry little men these hats are to be recom-
Mended. They come in pink. blue and white
for the small sum of fifty cents.
T HE Norfolk coat and skirt suit has been
adapted into a dress consisting of bodice
and skirt for girls between the ages of eight
and fifteen years.  The skirts of these suits
are either box-plaited or plain gored ones.
The bodices are plaited in the back and front,
and sometimes are made with a yoke and
sometimes without.   The sleeves are full and
leg-of-mutton in shape; in this respect differ-
ing from the sleeves of the regulation Norfolk
jackets.  The bodices are semi-fitting and are
worn outside of the skirt with a belt of the
same material as the gown, or one of patent
leather.  With these bodices turn-over linen
collars, Eton in shape, are worn.  For useful-
ness these dresses are most excellent, as they
are quite simple in style and easily washed
and ironed.   They are made in the light-
wveight woolen goods as well as in the wash
materials, but particularly good materials for
them are the linens and mercerized cheviots
in the darker colorings, and in the small
checks and plaids.  These materials catt also
be made tip into skirt and blouse dresses of
different materials, as a skirt in a solid color
and a Norfolk blouse in a small check which
tones in color with the skirt.
F OR better dresses for girls between these
ages such materials as mull and flowered
and figured Swiss are selected.   For these
dresses either the full shirred or gored skirt
pattern is used.  The shirred skirt is made
in a deep yoke shape at the top, and in many
instances the shirring continues quite low
down, almost to the knees, being spaced in
clusters.  Below the knees these skirts are
finished with a straight Spanish flounce of the
material, put on with a shirred heading.
The bodices are made in full round baby
fashion with shirred yokes and deep berthas
of lace, or of the material
edged with lace.    The
sleeves are shirred at the
top in cap fashion, and
below  are left verv full
and loose and drawn into
small shirred cuffs.
It is sometimes pretty
in making dresses of very
thin sheer materials, sucht
as organdy and Swiss, to
trii them   with   plain
linen batiste or a colored
'argandy, using the trim-
nings where otherwise
lace or insertions would
lr ' be used. A collar of
colored*material ona
'Awnl of a plain fabric is a
mot effective and anl ex-
tremely pretty finish.
S( JE 'I the hair linen gowns are made
very simoply', their only trimming consist-
ing of eyelet holes on the yokes, collars and
cuffs.  These eyelet holes are made in a vari-
ety of sizes, arranged in groups of geometric
clusters and finished with a buttonhole edge,
or a spider-web stitch in the centre; or again
they are simply buttonholed around the edges
and placed over a thin colored lining.  This
mode of trimming may be used effectively,
too, on the collars intended for children of
all ages to wear with silk or cloth coats.
BY THE little woman and her sister, hats
of rough-and-ready straw and fine chip
and Leghorn will again be worn.  The rough-
and-ready straws come in the round, wide-
brimmed, rolling sailor shape, and are very
simply trimmed with bands of ribbon around
the crowns, and, in some cases, awt
binding of the same ribbon at t
edge of the brims.  Hats of chip a
trimmed more fancifully with loo
wide scarfs of the soft satin taffe
ribbon, with streamers at the ba
which hang to the waist-line, or aga
they are trimmed entirely w
wreaths of flowers which are plac
more on the brims than on the crowt
A spray of flowers is sometim
caught in with the ribbon streame
in the back.  When a wreath is us
it is not necessary to put the scarf
ribbon around the crown, but
simply finish the hat inthe back wi
small rosettes.  The Leghorn ha
which, of course, are for very
best and for dress occasions
only, are trimmed with ruffles
of plaited chiflon, which form
a frilly mass around the brim
that is becoming to the face of a
child.  One long ostrich plume
completes the trimming.
ire
se
ta
ck
in
ith
ed
tes
ed
of
to
ith
ts,
F OR the younger children, to whom   these
large-shaped hats are not becoming, and
especially in the case of boys, Leghorns in
the round rolling shapes trimmed with rosettes
of ribbon or white quills are selected. These
hats of Leghorn are usually for " best " occa-
sions. For comnionplace, every-day purposes
the plain round naiisook caps are used for
the boys in the plain styles without frills of
any kind, but simply tucked or hemstitched,
with rosettes of baby gauze ribbon as their
trimming, or rosettes made entirely of lace.
For the tiny little men who are still in their
coaches this shape is also used with a face
ruching of muslin edged with lace.
The " Dutch " shaped muslin caps and
cap-bonnets " are well adapted to the little
men.   For all-around use the plain corded
muslin or piqu6 washable hats are the best.
T HE one-piece tucked gown is a pretty
model for girls between the ages of six and
ten, and even sometimes up to twelve, if their
height is not too great.  These gowns are
made to wear with guinipes.  The material
is tucked horizontally throughout from the
yoke-line to below the waist, where the tucks
are left to fly loose, forming a pretty, full
skirt.  Instead of the tucking, narrow inser-
tions of lace or embroidery are sometimes
used. The one-piece tucked model is equally
pretty made in either a thin, light-weight
woolen material such as voile, or in the soft
Japanese or Indian silks, and also, of course,
in any of the soft cotton fabrics.
PLAIN separate shirtwaists are, as a rule,
Pfar from becoming to the unformed figure
of a child, and for this reason they have never
attained any degree of popularity. This sum-
mer, however, there is a compromise between
the plain tucked shirtwaist, the sailor blouse,
the Russian blouse, and the Norfolk jacket.
This new model will be worn with the coat
and skirt suits by girls from ten to twelve.
PRINTED madras. is a nice material for
P   both boys' and girls' summer clothes.
It is of a nice weight and well adapted for
practical purposes.  The figures are mostly
in standard colors and small in design.  For
an inexpensive material (it comes as low as
twelve and a half cents a yard) it is really
most satisfactory.  Figured  goods of this
character do not require aly trimming to
speak of except stitching, or bands of a plain
color.  Laces  and  embroideries  may  be
omitted and yet the dress be quite stylish.
FOR older girls white washable blond net is
a material which makes up prettily for
afternoon dresses.  These dresses, of course,
are nicer when made ont a silk foundation.
One of the soft summer silks answers the
purpose, or if silk is not possible, for eco-
nomical reasons, lawn may be substituted and
the drop skirt lining be finished with a ruffle
edged with narrow lace.   These blond nets
wash well and yet they have all the dressy
characteristics of a lace dress at about a third
of the cost.  They are also very pretty when
trimmed with Jacob's ladder, through which
narrow wash ribbons are run.
G  IRLS between six and fifteen still con-
tinue to wear the regulation sailor suits.
For summer these suits are usually made in
white (luck trinuted with bands of navy blue
linen duck.  The sailor collars are also of the
linen duck trimmed with narrow white cotton
braid or with small bias folds of muslin.
The corners of the collars are embroidered
with stars. The sleeves are full and
finished with band cuffs. A chevron
is embroidered on the left sleeve,
another otn the small inner chemi-
sette, and another ott the spencer.
The right sleeve is trimmed with
the one stripe. These embroideries
Alnowbe bought separately, all
ready to sew on to the
collars and sleeves.
Sailor blouses in
white duck are fre-
quently worn with
other skirts, prefer-
ably those of dark
navy blue serge,
when the costume is
made complete with
a navy blue reefer
jacket. These sailor
suits are used for
or
traveling and general wear throughout
the summer.  With them are worn sailor-
shaped hats in coarse straw with a simple
ribbon band for trimming.
Page 46
Little Men and Little Women in Summertime
By Mrs. Ralston
ILLUSTRATIONS BY KATHARINE N. RICHARDSON