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Wisconsin State Horticultural Society / The Wisconsin horticulturist
Vol. III, No. 9 (November 1898)

Kellogg, Geo. J.
Grapes,--pruning and protection,   pp. 14-15 PDF (480.6 KB)


Page 14


14    THE WISCONSIN HORTICULTURIST.
ROSES.-FALL AND WINTER TREATMENT.
November is the time to see to it that these pets are
made comfortable for the winter, though December will
answer.
Some prefer to prune before covering, but many defer
pruning until spring. One man treats his Hardy Perennial
roses to a cut-back of eighteen inches from the root, then
runs boards around them and fills the enclosed space with
leaves.
We like to have some of the Hardy Perennial, Moss,
and June roses left long and some pruned short. We had
General Jacqueminot this year, on their own roots, in full
bloom, standing seven feet. high without support. When
left long and laid down, a sod inverted is the best protection.
G. J. K.
GRAPES.-PRUNING AND PROTECTION.
Geo. J. Kellogg.
Editor Wisconsin Horticulturist:-
As soon as the leaves fall grapes may be pruned. Cut
off three-fourths of all new wood. On the strongest shoots
of the new wood leave two to four buds. This new wood is
what bears next year and every bud may be counted for three
bunches of fruit, though it will pay always to nip off the
third bunch.
After pruning, the vines should be left up exposed to
the air ten days to dry or they will bleed in the Spring.
Grapevines must be laid down on the ground. A stake
to hold them down is about all the protection the Concord
needs; for other kinds inverted sod is better than soft earth.
Soft earth is not good for the Rogers varieties, as often the
buds become water-soaked and killed.
It is better to prune in November, but any time up to
March will answer, if the winter is not too changeable.
The most trying time for all half-hardy vines, plants, trees


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