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Butterick Publishing Company / The new dressmaker; with complete and fully illustrated instructions on every point connected with sewing, dressmaking and tailoring, from the actual stitches to the cutting, making, altering, mending, and cleaning of clothes for ladies, misses, girls, children, infants, men and boys
([1921])

Chapter 10: Dresses for ladies, misses, girls and children,   pp. 51-52 PDF (586.9 KB)


Page 52

 
  FIRST SHORT DRESSES. The general rules for making infants' clothes (see
Chapter 
15, pages 73 and 80) apply to the first short dresses. They are very simple
in construction. 
  DRESSES MADE WITH A CLOS- 
ING, UNDLER    PLAAII. Ims closing 
is often used in a plaited dress. The 
closing, out under a plait and finished 
with laps for buttons and button- 
holes, is shown in Illustration 87. 
The slash for the opening is made 
under the plait a seam's width from 
the sewing. The laps are made 
double, and when attached should 
be a little narrower than the plait 
which covers them. By referring to 
the illustration, the method of join- 
ing the laps to the edges of the 
opening will be readily understood. 
  DRESSES MADE WITH YOKES. 
A yoke can be joined to a dress as 
shown in Illustration 88. 
  Cut the yoke      and   turn  the 
edge under a seam's width, clip- 
ping the edge where necessary to 
make it lie flat. Baste the yoke over 
the top of the front of the dress. To 
the wrong side, baste a bias strip of 
material with its edges turned under. 
Place two rows of stitching across 
the yoke, stitching from the outside. 
They win eaten tnrougn the bias rac- 
ing that is basted underneath, and              I1. 87. The Closing Under
a Plait 
which covers the seam, making a neat 
finish on the inside. This finish is de- 
sirable for a dress made of any material 
which is not transparent, as it makes it 
unnecessary to line the yoke. If a lining 
is used, however, it is cut like the yoke 
pattern, and the top of the dress por- 
tion is enclosed between the turned-un- 
der edges of the yoke and its lining. 
  SMOCKING is a trimming much 
used on the better class of children's 
clothes here and abroad. It is used for 
dresses, rompers, coats and little boys' 
suits. It is very pretty in colors on 
dresses of fine white batiste, nainsook, 
plain lawn, handkerchief linen, cotton 
voile, very fine cotton cr~pe and silk 
          IlL 88. Attaching Yoke to Front     mull. It is also used on the
heavier 
                                              cotton materials in white or
plain colors, 
                                              on chambray, serge, broadcloth,
crepe 
de Chine, etc. It is very easy to do with the Butterick transfers, which
not only give the 
design of the smocking but instructions for working it. 
52 
THE NEW DRESSMAKER 


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