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Butterick Publishing Company / The new dressmaker; with complete and fully illustrated instructions on every point connected with sewing, dressmaking and tailoring, from the actual stitches to the cutting, making, altering, mending, and cleaning of clothes for ladies, misses, girls, children, infants, men and boys
([1921])

Chapter 9: Skirts for ladies and misses,   pp. 47-50 PDF (1.1 MB)


Page 48

 
THE NEW DRESSMAKER 
  THE BELT. Make the belt following the pictures given in the Deltor or Illustrated
Instructions. 
  Fasten your belt with good-sized hooks and eyes. Number eight is the best
size to 
use for this purpose. For a belt of average width sew three hooks on the
right end of 
the belt, placing them about one quarter of an inch in from the edge. Sew
them through 
the rings and over the bill. 
  Sew three eyes on the left end of the belt, letting them extend far enough
over the edge 
of the belt so as to fasten easily when the belt is hooked. Sew them through
the rings 
and at the end of the belt. Except for a very narrow belt always use three
hooks and 
eyes; with only two hooks and eyes a belt of ordinary width will bulge at
the center. 
  PLAITS, SHIRRINGS, DRAPERIES, ETC. Lay in all the plaits, shirrings, draperies,
etc., in the outside skirt, following the Deltor or Illustrated Instructions
included in every 
Butterick pattern. Baste the seams. (Chapter 2, page 17.) 
  ALTERATIONS. Try the skirt on. If the above instructions have been followed
at 
every point and each step of the work has been done carefully, the skirt
should fit per- 
fectly with possibly some minor adjustment of the length. 
  If through some small miscalculation the waist is too large, it can be
taken in at the 
seam or darts if it is plain at the top. If the skirt is gathered, the gathers
can be drawn 
a little closer. If it is plaited, the plaits can be made a trifle deeper.
  If the waist is too small, the seams or darts can be let out if the skirt
is plain at the top 
and allows for this alteration. If no allowance is made for this alteration,
the skirt could 
                                           be raised a trifle higher on the
belt all the 
                                           way around. If the skirt is gathered
at the 
top, the fulness can be let out the necessary 
amount. If it is plaited, each plait can be 
let out a trifle. 
  In altering seams or darts the alteration 
should run gradually to the hip, unless the 
skirt is large or small at that point, in which 
case the alteration should run all the way 
to the bottom of the skirt. Be careful not 
to fit the skirt too tightly over the hips or 
the skirt will draw up and wrinkle when one 
sits down and will get out of shape. If 
the skirt sets properly, the center line at the 
front should be perpendicular. 
  HANGING A GORED SKIRT. To make 
sure a gored skirt is an even length all the 
way around, cut a strip of cardboard two 
inches wide and ten or twelve inches long. 
Make a notch at one long edge at the dis- 
tance at which you want the skirt to clear 
the floor. Put your skirt on and stand on 
a table. (Ill. 85.) Have some one mark 
        Ifl. 85. To Get an Even line at the the correct lengtl with the marker
and pins. 
                Bot5om of a 5kEe           (I1I. 85.) Take the skirt off,
turn it up at 
                                           the pin-line and baste it. 
                                             Try the skirt on again, to be
sure that 
the lower edge is perfectly even before hemming or facing it. 
  There are two ways of hanging a skirt if you have no one to help you. Take
a straight, 
flat stick or a yard-stick long enough to reach from the floor to a line
on the skirt which 
you can reach easily without bending. Just below the fullest part of the
hips is the best 
point. Stand the stick upright on the floor, with one end touching your figure,
and place 
a pin where the top of the stick touches the skirt. Move the stick around
the figure a 
few inches at a time, marking it at each point. Take off the skirt and measure
from the 
pins down to the correct length. Mark the correct length with pins. Turn
it up, baste 
it and try it on. 
48 


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