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Brown, P. Clement (Percy Clement), 1886- / Art in dress

[Opposite silhouette logic],   pp. 72-75 PDF (1.3 MB)

Page 74

tat linesreproper          for thtaking of of yo  Model accord- 
ie rule of Thirds. Your sleeve formation comes first. Instead of 
your line under the arm down to the Chemise Waist Line only, 
on with this line to the hem of the dress. This is the line that you 
ed one inch under the arm. The width of your sleeve is four-thirds; 
transferred is four inches. You draw your outside lines straight with the
under the arm that you have just drawn. Then you draw your top or sleeve
portion of this Model straight with your sleeve edge. Cut up under the arm
from the Chemise Waist Line to arm-pit. The strip belonging to the sleeve
is separated from your Chemise Waist Line. You will now draw your regu- 
lar chemise lower portion of your Block. You spring only your Chemise 
Block by separating into one-half between the Center Front Line and your
Side Seam Line, Dot, and then into one-half on each side of this dot. Draw
straight lines up to Chest Line, open and insert your spring by spreading
inch at the bottom and tapering up to nothing. The neck is taken off ag 
follows: Center Front from Chest Line 1ΒΌ thirds up; Body Line or Line
one-third up and a three-quarter-extension over Line One or Body Line. Half
way up on Line One or Body Line it comes within one-hall of a third an4 
on the shoulder from Line One or Body Line 1/2 thirds. These all trans- 
ferred are inches. 
    Back: The plans of your Back are worked out in the same rules as 
applied to the front. Do not forget your regulation rules for the straight
with matching the shoulder tips or Kimona Sleeve tips and taking your inch
off at the top of your neck, add your inch under the arm. Follow your rules
for the sleeve and side lines the same as the front. 
    This underslip is made of crepe. 
    Your outer garment of paneled effect is worked over the same block 
using the same neck opening, measurements, etc. Now, for your different 
silhouettes, remember your ideas are different For instance, the dotted line
marked One (Right Hand Side), connecting the tip of the shoulder to the 
Chemise Waist Line is slightly curved. You can draw this in free hand or
by placing V 5 of your Red Curve and running that curve up from the Waist
Line. This is your Right Side. Your Left Side has the projection, which when
cut will fall softly into a cascade. Measure out four-thirds and the projecting
point is up 1V thirds above the extension of the Chemise Waist Line. From
point draw directly upto the tip of the shoulder, marked Two (Left Hand 
). The rest of your Block is your regular unsprung Chemise. 

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