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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur

Lesson VIII: Mourning millinery,   pp. 114-139 PDF (4.3 MB)

Page 136

              THE ART OF MILLINERY 
dressmaker, being according to her build and style. If 
it is any way possible, a call over the telephone will get 
this important information, so that the headwear may be 
in harmony with the scheme of the toilette. A knowl- 
edge of the correct costuming of the day is a very neces- 
sary bit of stock in trade. Your customer should come 
to you at least every month to have renovations and 
changes made in her mourning chapeaux. 
  Net face veils are only permissible in the last periods 
of mourning, and these must be plain black, without 
figures other than small dots. 
. For young ladies picturesque hats are permissible, but 
for older ladies they are not in good taste, and becoming 
things can always be found without offending either con- 
ventions or art. Small, simple, "smart" hats are to be 
had in so many shapes that no one need be unbecom- 
ingly hatted; and veils long or short are easily draped 
on any shape. 
  Here is a little table of periods and grades for depth 
of mourning, but this is an elastic law, to be modified to 
suit feelings and tastes, and the prevailing custom of the 
period or country. 
  For a widow, crape two years, slight mourning one 
year (cut in half if desired). Long veil six months, 
lighter six months. 
  For father or mother, crape six months, black without 
crape three months, slight mourning three months. Veil 
three months. 
  For son or daughter, if adult, the same as above. 
  For children, less if desired. 
  For sister or brother or grandparents, same as above, 
less if desired. 
  Uncles, aunts, first cousins, nephews and nieces, crape 
trimmings only on black. Face veils; no long veils. 
  "Complimentary" mourning is worn for relatives-in- 
law, distant relatives, or friends one wishes to honor. 
This is black and white in mourning combination. 
  On the length of veils sufficient has been said above, 

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