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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur

Lesson VIII: Mourning millinery,   pp. 114-139 PDF (4.3 MB)

Page 135

              THE ART OF MILLINERY 
crisp newness out of the crape, and it will look mussed 
when you do get it right. Always find the middle of 
your veil, baste a line if necessary, and when pinning 
on a folded veil take care by measurements that both 
sides are even, and keep them so. Pin on and work 
from the middle to each side, laying each plait the same 
depth and pressing the plaits, when completed, with the 
flat hands. It helps to pin the plaits away down and 
leave them so a while, but use small, fine pins or the 
marks will show. Use dull head pins to pin on veils, 
and hide the steel. 
  Some designs can be pinned flat on the table and then 
put on the hat; it is impossible to give rules for this; 
it's like draping a velvet, felt, or Neapolitan hat; one 
can do it, but the how must be learned by practice, as 
the embryo sculptor learns to mold the clay into form 
as he sees his teacher do; no one can make him do it. 
The writer has often evolved a design from her hand- 
kerchief, or any stray bit of tissue paper lying around. 
You can try the idea in miniature; then carry it out on 
a larger scale; but do not handle new crape unless sure 
of yourself. 
                Periods of Mourning 
  Mourning for father, mother, sisters, brothers, chil- 
dren, is of crape for the first three months, but the veil 
need only be worn at the funeral, except for parents, 
when it is optional to wear it longer; and the entire 
mourning may be lightened at will, but mourning face 
veils are correct for three months, and now the black 
chiffon veil is so much in vogue that many young women 
wear it from choice. The veil of fine sheer Brussels 
net two yards long, hemmed with crape one inch wide 
and several crape folds above, is correct even for a 
young widow, draped around her crape toque, the ends 
falling gracefully at the back. 
   The clever saleswoman has not only to consider the 
 grade of mourning but the style of costume her cus- 
 tomer will be likely to wear, this, if she has a good 

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