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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur
(1909)
Lesson VIII: Mourning millinery, pp. 114-139
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Page 114
THE ART OF MILLINERY LESSON VIII MOURNING MILLINERY OURNING is a distinct and very important branch of millinery, and many clever designers command excellent salaries, devoting their entire artistic abilities to this work alone. The scope of ma- terials is limited, the colors restricted to black, white, and various shades of the blue lavenders and violets; and occasionally greys; in England, cardinal is added to this list, accepted because of its ecclesiastical use. Therefore a designer has a more difficult task to evolve from the small varieties at her disposal, head- gear at once suitable, becoming and artistic. Materials The materials used are, first of all crape, in black and white. This comes in a number of grades of quality, some dull, some glossy, some crisp, some so soft, that if gathered into a handful it will not crush; but of all makes the "waterproof" is to be preferred. Next comes crepe de chine in black and white, the lusterless kind; chiffon, mousseline de soie, cr~pe-lisse, grenadine and tulle. In silks the rich dull grosgrain, peau de soie, and Ottomans of rich, heavy cord; and uncut velvet, in England known as "Terry" velvet; this comes in several sizes of welt, from very fine to quite a heavy cord; it may be used for deep mourn- ing, having a dull, deep surface not unlike crape; it, is admirable to cover frames, just as one would use velvet, and accentuate the depth of the mourning by crape trimmings. It is handsome also used to bind and trim hats of crepe de chine, dull felt, chip, Neapolitan, etc., as one would use velvet in colored work. Brussels nets and nun's veilings also come into use for veils, etc. Wings, quills (Paradise and aigrette if permitted or desired), dull black jet, bright jet and white jet, all find 114
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