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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter XI: Pleatings, ruchings and quillings; cockades, pleated and petal rosettes, and other ornaments,   pp. 119-128 PDF (1.9 MB)

Page 123

it falls into softer and more graceful pleats if cut the weft way. 
The strips should be neatly joined to the required length, and 
the edges turned in very narrowly and either finished with a 
French or a rolled hem. 
   When a frayed edge is desired, the silk must be cut on the 
cross, and the edges carefully frayed with a pin before the 
ruching is made. 
   Fine corded silk ribbon from 3 in. to 1 in. in width is the 
most satisfactory choice for making fine pleatings, though satin 
and velvet ribbon are also frequently used. 
    Cockades in some form or other are always more or less in 
fashion. The name and form of the cockade was first suggested 
by the cock's comb, and the first cockades pictured in historical 
head-dresses were twisted by the " coxcombs" of that period 
from the long " liripipe " attached to the early English linen
head-dress. The cap formed the comb of the cockade, and the 
pendant liripipe was twisted round and round this to form the 
base (Fig. 10). As years passed the linen cockade gave place to 
more serviceable materials, and in later days we see survivals of 
it made of japanned leather and ribbon, worn for trimmings on 
ladies' hats and on the hats of coachmen and footmen as part of 
their liveries. 
   Fig. 11 shows a tiny round cockade such as is frequently the 
only trimming on a lady's tricorne or other close-fitting hat 
or toque. Fig. 12 is another favourite type of cockade, the 
three-quarter disc of which is finished with swallow-tailed ends. 
   The foundations of cockades are made of stiff net or muslin, 
the edge of the net being supported with filet wire buttonholed 
to it, the foundation then being neatly bound and covered with 
silk or muslin. 
   Knife or single box pleating makes the neatest and smartest 
cockades, and either loops or tiny ends of the ribbon usually 
conceal the finish of the pleating (Figs. 11 and 12). The centre 

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