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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter XI: Pleatings, ruchings and quillings; cockades, pleated and petal rosettes, and other ornaments,   pp. 119-128 PDF (1.9 MB)

Page 120

workrooms is made on the knife blade principle, the pleats being 
pressed by means of heated irons which are placed in a box over 
the kilter. 
    Pleats of ΒΌ in. to 1 in. in width are the most satisfactory when
 ribbon is the material used. The ribbon must be pleated from 
 the left hand into the right and in the arrangement of box pleats 
 the backs of the pleats must just overlap one another. The 
 pleats are held in place by running stitches worked from right to 
 left, which are put in as the pleating progresses. One great secret 
 in doing pleating of any kind successfully lies in keeping the 
 needle in the material the whole of the time it is being worked, 
 filling the needle with pleats and gradually easing them off on 
 to the thread at the right hand as necessary. 
    Fig. 1 shows a length of pleating in progress; the pleats 
 must, of course, be of uniform size and quite even at both edges. 
    Fig. 2 shows the process of single box pleating; this takes 
the same quantity of material as knife pleating; the difference 
in the process being that the pleats are laid alternately to right 
and left. 
    Fig. 3 shows double box pleating, which takes five times the 
finished length of material, if the pleats are arranged exactly 
over each other as illustrated; if the pleats are placed further 
apart and do not cover each other, rather less ribbon is required. 
In double and treble box pleating it is well to make the upper 
pleats a trifle narrower than the under ones. 
    Ruehing is a little more difficult than pleating as the stitching 
must be kept quite even and exactly in the centre of the ribbon. 
If the ribbon is lightly creased at the half-width before working, 
it is easier to follow this guiding line for the stitching. 
   Fig. 4 shows the process of forming a single box-pleated 
ruehe. The beginner will find it is wise to practise this process 
in muslin or paper before using the ribbon, and when even pleats 
can be made easily and quickly the effect gained will repay the 
most ambitious worker. Fig. 4a shows the pleats caught back 
with a tie-stitch in the centre to form a fancy pleating. 

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