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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter X: Hat and bonnet linings, and bandeaux,   pp. 110-118 PDF (1.7 MB)

Page 116

shape of a halo, hence their name "Halo bandeaux."      They 
came into use when large crowns were blocked in felt, straw and 
buckram, and the head-size of the wearer was not taken account 
of, and all hats were made to a regulation size of about 30 in. in the 
circumference of the crown. In Fig. 13 the head oval is cut to fit 
the wearer's head, and the outer edge of the bandeau is round, and 
cut to fit the head-part of the hat. Fig. 14 was made on an 
expanding principle, the tongue-shaped end marked A being 
slipped under an elastic band at B, so that the size could be 
regulated to fit any sized head and hat. 
   Another type of bandeau has a head lining attached to it 
(Fig. 15). A crossway strip of velvet 1 in. to 1I in. wide and 
about 24 in. long was joined into a ring, and had a fine piece of 
cane inserted through a slot on the outer edge, where it was sewn 
to the head-part of the hat. A " cap" head lining was made 
and joined to the inner edge of the velvet and a narrow draw-string 
inserted by means of which the bandeau could be comfortably 
adjusted to any head size. 
   When cutting bandeaux follow the rules given in Chapter IV 
for planning and cutting espatra and stiff net shapes. In the 
bandeau the wire must be wire-stitched all round the edge, 
the ends of the wire being overlapped - in.    Do not, how- 
ever, join the wire either at the extreme end of the bandeau or 
where it is likely to press on the head. Join the wire for Figs. 
9, 10 and 11 about the centre of the upper edge ; for Figs. 12 
and 13 at the centre back, and for Fig. 14 on the outer edge; 
the wire for this last bandeau is cut in one length. When making 
the bandeau take care to overlap and wire-stitch the ends of the 
wire very securely before binding the edges of the bandeau with 
mull muslin. 
   Figs. 9 and 10 are usually covered quite plainly on both sides; 
the inner side with velvet, which grips the head and helps the 
fit of the hat, and the outer one with thin silk. Both materials 
should be cut to the shape of the bandeau, allowing 1 in. all 
round the edge for turnings (Fig. 16). The pattern must be 

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