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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VII: Covering shapes,   pp. 78-92 PDF (2.9 MB)

Page 88

   Fig. 9 shows a suitable little shape to be covered with 
gathered velvet; the brim is 2½ in. wide, all round; the crown 
measures 14 in. from back to front, and 13 in. from side to side; 
the small oval top to the crown measures 4 in. x 3 in. and is 
included in the full measurement. The head size is 24 in., the 
brim-edge 34 in. A strip of cross-cut velvet about 7 in. wide 
and 51 in. long is required for the brim-the width being equal 
to twice the brim depth (21 in. X 2 - 5 in. ; add 1 in. (turnings) 
-51in. ; add 11 in. (fullness) = 7 in.); and the length being 
1ý times the brim circumference. If the velvet is 20 in. in width,
two cross-cut pieces will just be sufficient ; join these together 
(Fig. 4, Chapter VI), and then join them into a ring (Fig. 8a) ; 
mark the quarters, and run a strong gathering thread along the 
back of the velvet, about 1 in. from both edges. Cut a strip for 
the crown, 7 in. wide and about 36 in. long when joined; join 
this piece into a ring and gather over a fine cord along both 
edges (Fig. 8b), after marking the quarters with pins. Cut an 
oval 5 in. X 4 in. for the top of the crown and stab-stitch it to 
the shape. Arrange the quarters of velvet brim-piece to the 
front, back and sides of shapes, setting the joins in the velvet 
at the sides. Draw up the gathering thread and sew the velvet 
evenly round the head-part of the upper-brim; arrange the full- 
ness tastefully round the brim-edge, draw up the second gather- 
ing thread and sew the velvet inside the head-part just above 
the fitting-line, thus completing the brim. Draw up one cord 
in the crown piece to fit the small oval; then draw up the gather- 
ing thread and fasten it off. Draw up the second cord and fit 
to the head-size; arrange the fullness and place this full piece 
over the crown shape, pinning the quarters to those marked on 
the shape. Stab-stitch round the top of the oval first, then round 
the head-part, hiding the stitches in the fullness of the gathering 
(Fig. 10). 
   Silk and satin are equally suitable for this style of gathered 
covering;   when   these thinner materials are used, sets of 
three gatherings about I in. apart may be introduced in the 

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