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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VII: Covering shapes,   pp. 78-92 PDF (2.9 MB)

Page 86

cover the upper or " weather side " of a shape, and a softly- 
finished silk to line in the under side, which is more or less 
protected as shown in Chapter IX by Figs. 4, 5 and 6. 
    5. Pipings, plain and pleated bindings of ribbon, etc., narrow 
 strips of feather trimming, or of fur, all make pretty varieties 
 round the edges of plain covered shapes, particularly for girls' 
 and children's hats. An outstanding pleating of ribbon or cross- 
 cut silk, similar to Fig. 7 both trims and softens the outline of 
 a plainly covered shape. 
    Similarly, in the covering of the crowns of shapes, the upper 
 or the lower half of the side-band may be of a colour or texture 
 of material in contrast with that used for the covering, or alter- 
 natively a band of velvet may encircle the crown of a silk-covered 
    Cordings and pipings (Fig. 8) always afford a pleasing " finish"
when introduced to emphasize the outlines of the crown, or to 
break the flatness of a large crown of the tam-o'-shanter variety. 
    FULL COVERINGS.-It is very necessary to choose a 
material as light in weight as possible for any full covering, other- 
wise the completed hat may be quite unwearable. With the 
exception of tulle, materials are cut on the cross for gathering, 
pleating, or folding (see Chapter VI). 
    For gathering, allow from one-and-a-half to three times the 
length of material required when finished, according to the thick- 
ness of the fabric and the amount of fullness desired. For pleat- 
ing, allow from two to three times the finished length, according 
to depth of pleat desired. 
   For folding, allow as for pleating; no hard and fast rules 
can be given for these processes, as so much depends on the bulk 
of material and the fashion that prevails. 
   Gathering.-This may be applied either to the whole of a hat, 
toque, or bonnet, or possibly to the crown, to the brim, or only 
to the edge of the brim. A shape is often covered with gathered 
velvet, silk, chiffon, or other material, the gathering being done 
either (a) quite flatly, (b) over cords, and (c) to form tucks. 

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