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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VII: Covering shapes,   pp. 78-92 PDF (2.9 MB)

Page 83

or mull muslin must be cut out by the pattern pieces, and quite 
flatly strained and tacked in position over the whole shape. 
    If aerophane, georgette, lisse, or similar transparent material 
is being used, either an inferior quality of the same material or 
a coarse tulle or cotton net may be used as an undercovering. 
    After the sparterie or wire shape is prepared according to the 
 substance of the outer covering (see Chapter IV), cut out the pattern 
 pieces in material. When this is done, fit on the upper-brim 
 piece, gently straining out all tendency to fullness. To do this 
 pull the material a little along the warp and weft threads, but 
 on no account pull across them as this will cause the material 
 to cockle; snip the turnings on the slant round the head-part 
 nearly to the fitting-line, and on no account beyond it. Stab- 
 stitch the material to the head-part of the shape, just above 
 the fitting-line, and pare off all spare material. Turn the material 
 over the brim-edge, smoothing it with the ball of the thumb 
 to fit and coax it to the outline of the shape, and secure it there 
 with fine steel or lillikin pins (Fig. 3). Use a fine needle and silk, 
 and tack the covering material into place near the brim-edge. 
 Pare away all unnecessary material, and so avoid a bulky edge, 
 as there are four thicknesses of the covering to be considered 
 before the brim-edge is completed. Hold the hat upside down 
 with the under-brim facing you, then catch-stitch the edge of 
 the upper-brim piece down to the espatra, being careful not to 
 push the material along in doing so (Fig. 4). Stab-stitch round 
 head part just above fitting line. 
   The next process is the fitting of the under-brim piece and 
this requires care. Without cutting away the oval for the head, 
place the material over the hat, depress it a little in the centre 
over the head oval, and pin it in place at the centre front, back, 
and sides, easing out all fullness while turning in the edge and 
pinning it flat to the shape all round. Cut out the head oval in 
the material to within 3 in. of the fitting-line, notch the edges 
on the slant almost to the fitting-line, turn them up inside the 
crown and pin or stab-stitch through to it.     Slip-stitch the 

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