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Reiser, Winifred / Your millinery

Chapter four: The sailor hat in felt,   pp. 31-48 PDF (3.8 MB)

Page 32

             To  mpoy hi plabliy t is fllst xtntand with 
     accrac i isesentalfor you to beabl to establish the truae 
  bis f the material. Without it your work wifllgo sadly awry; 
  thmin temindofthedsge. Thisponcaotbovr 
  Fig. I ho'wsa set ofasparteric in digamtcform, the 
weave or warp bigshown as a series of lines parallel to the" 
   lnt, crossed by th etrunning at right angles to it. Since 
these lines are at right-angles the true bias will be found by 
cutting right across the sheet at an angle of 45 degrees from 
either of the bottom corners. 
  Before making the cut on a sheet of sparterie observe the 
texture of both sides. One side is muslin-faced and con- 
sequently smoother than the other. This smoother side is 
always used on the exterior of the work, i.e., the outside of the 
  haband and crown and the uppermost side of the brim. 
  Lay the sparterie sheet on the table, smooth side upper- 
most, take hold of the bottom left hand corner with the left 
hand and bend it over as in fig. 2. The bottom edge of the 
sheet, when bent over, should exactly cover the right-hand 
   edeso that the fold comes to anexact pint at the bottom 
right-hand corner. Crease the spatrefrl along the fold 
with the right hand. The weft of the bent-up peenow lies in 
the same direction as the warp of the rmidr(fig. 3). Still 
    hligthe corner firmly in place with the left hand, cut the 
material acdurately with scissors along the fold upwards from 
the bottom right-hand corner. 
  You now have two pieces of sparterie, each of which has an 
edge which pents the true bias of the material, and are ready 
to cut the haband, according to depth, as showni by the 
heavy lines in fig. 4. The same illustration also iniaeby 
   masof the dotted lines, how the two pieces can be used to 
the best advantage. Keep all odd scraps of sparterie, they will 
be needed when you come to the stage of supporting the brim, 
   Mark a pencil line parallel to, and If in. away from the 
work on the smoother side. With the sior, cut off the strip 
along this line and the headband is ready for cutting tosie 

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