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Brown, P. Clement (Percy Clement), 1886- / Art in dress
(1922)

[The mechanics of fashion],   pp. 62-66 ff. PDF (1.9 MB)


Page 63

 
The Mechanics of Fashion-Introducing 
                      Coat and Skirt 
    A Line which formerly was figure fitting in an Athletic sense, has now
under Mechanical change become straighter. This line, in a two-piece suit
(Coat and Skirt) on account of its pendulum effect would suggest Sports 
Wear. The principal of which is easiness of line and is of relative motion
of 
Grace and Character. In Sports Wear, moving powers would be more or 
less in consideration, so in conceiving an idea, the problem would be to
bring 
out straight, easy and non-resisting lines. Adjust your line sense to produce
a multiplied effect of Mannish yet Feminine technique. Bold yet yielding
to 
Feminine desires. 
    In this case the Design is of the very simplest effect. It is executed
by 
the Scarf idea and drafting onto the same a pocket, a newer idea. Just face
it, 
turn it back, and stitch it on. We have a Model Sportsman-like and yet not
too extreme. The Skirt is a very simple affair of a striped sports stuff.
                   Pattern Designing 
    Coat Block: Take your Pattern Block and lay it on your paper or mate-
rial about one inch or so in from the edge of your material (Center Front).
Under the arm measure out one inch; at the Straight Waist Line two inches.
From under the arm and through the two-inch point we draw a line down 
nine inches further than the Tight or Normal Waist Line. Under the arm 
we measure down one inch for a larger arm-hole because it is a Coat. We 
curve in free hand our arm-hole. In springing or adding fullness put in regu-
lar springs. Two of these springs may extend higher than Cheat Line. 
    Back: You do not add the inch out under the arm, but you measure out
your two inches at the Loose Waist Line. You also make your arm-hole one
inch larger. From under the arm you draw a line down through the two 
inches at the Loose Waist Line, and extend nine inches below the Tight 
Waist Line. In springing for fullness in the back, divide into one-half and
one-half on each side, making three springs. You spring two of these up and
through the Chest Line. You then add three extra springs making six 
springs in all for the Back. 
    Sleeve: To draft a large sleeve measure around your arm-hole and dot
in that amount in the perforation on that part of the Red Curve that is pre-
Sixty-three 


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