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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur

Lesson VIII: Mourning millinery,   pp. 114-139 PDF (4.3 MB)

Page 127

              THE ART OF MILLINERY 
front; in fact, it should be so arranged that the prayer 
book may be held comfortably below the hem, as lifting 
this will break it. 
  The rigorous law is that this veil is to be worn three 
months, but, as a matter of fact, many widows wear the 
crape veil only six weeks, then throw it back and wear 
a Brussels net or tulle face veil hemmed with crape; 
many have the veil cut off and redraped to get rid of 
the weight, which is perfectly sensible, and in three 
months more this veil may be changed for one of net 
with deep crape hem; this also is later shortened, and 
a narrower hem allowed. 
  The orthodox rule for a widow is crape for two years, 
but now one is considered long enough, the second year 
dull silk, crepe de chine, chiffon, &c., taking its place. 
  Pure white crape, made up and used in the same way 
as black, is equally deep, and now soft dove and steel 
gray are being worn, even to the long veil. 
  The "Marie Stuart" bonnet for first widow's mourn- 
ing is no longer the only correct thing; they are not 
becoming to all, and the changes in modern coiffure 
make modifications imperative; therefore, a small toque 
often replaces the bonnet, with a touch of white near 
the face, put in after the funeral. 
  The veil, if not too heavy, is quite becoming to most 
women; hence French women often adopt it for grades 
of mourning that really do not call for this; the taste, 
inclination, and purse of the mourner being at present 
the chief law as to the style and duration of mourning. 
It may, however, be taken for granted that in deep first 
mourning rich simplicity in design and line of veil is in 
best taste; later more ornate and picturesque designs 
may be suggested, but from first to last the chapeaux 
must be becoming. 
  A woman of position must have the ultra-correct 
things in town, but in the country she may substitute 
a crape-trimmed net or plain chiffon veil on a crape 
toque or small, plain crape hat. 

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