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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur

Lesson VIII: Mourning millinery,   pp. 114-139 PDF (4.3 MB)

Page 126

20 years ago changes began to appear, crape bonnets 
became more ornate, one began to copy Paris colored 
hats and toques in mourning materials, and the weight 
of veils began to be lessened, mainly because physicians 
pronounced them dangerous to health, four yards and 
more of heavy crape often being put in one widow's veil. 
  Of course, the change to better, more sensible modes 
has been gradual, but Paris and New York have com- 
bined in the evolution of mourning, and London is in 
touch with both. 
                Widow's Mourning 
  The English fashion for the widow, young or old, to 
wear in the house a dainty little "Marie Stuart" coif of 
white cr~pe Lisse, with long white tulle veil floating 
from the back, is charming and as becoming to the 
widow of 20 as to her mother, but English mourning 
retains much of the old-time stiffness, except in the 
class that comes much in contact with Paris. 
  The French widow never for one moment loses sight 
of effect. If she must wear mourning, then that must 
be made to enhance her good points, and so contrived 
that it shall add to and not detract from her charms- 
hence the frequent relief of a facing of white crape in 
her black crape hat or bonnet, these following the pre- 
vailing mode as closely as possible. But it is the veil 
that receives the greatest attention, as its arrangement 
makes or mars the entire toilette, and its length must 
tell her story to the world. 
  Veils were formerly worn to the hem of the train at 
the back and to the knees in front; the weight was un- 
bearable except for such women as rarely walked; even 
then they were very trying. The weight was relieved by 
an arrangment lifting and draping them slightly on the - 
left hip, and sometimes letting one shoulder support part 
of the heavy folds, but even then a strong back comb 
was (and is) necessary to keep the chapeau on the head. 
  Now the veil for the deepest mourning does not come 
lower than the knees at the back, and to the waist in 

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