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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur

Lesson VIII: Mourning millinery,   pp. 114-139 PDF (4.3 MB)

Page 125

              TnLE ART OF MILLINERY 
ings either in silk or crape or the two combined are 
always effective. 
  To make wings or quills, bend the desired shape in 
wire, pin this on a piece of crape, turn a narrow margin 
over the wire and run it in. Bind with a roll hem of 
crape or silk; fine jet may be used for wings or quills 
of net; a big pompon of slender willow leaves made in 
this way is a handsome trimming. (Figs. 9-io.) 
  Wild and full roses can be made of scraps of crape, 
by bending the petal shape in fine lace wire, and stretch- 
ing over this a bit of crape, tying the ravellings around 
the twisted wire stem. (Fig. ii.) Black flower stamens 
may be used as centers, or just a bit of wadding twisted 
round a double wire stem, with a bit of silk over, and 
the petals, few or many, arranged around this and firmly 
twisted on with strong thread. Black flower cusps or a 
bit of silk cut round with a hole in the middle finishes 
the flowers underneath. (See Lesson XIII, on Making 
Silk Flowers.) 
  Thus the scraps may be turned into beautiful trim- 
mings, and the apprentices kept busy during the (lull 
                  Correct Mourning 
  It is true that the making of mourning belongs in the 
domain of the workroom, but what shall be made is 
decided in the showroom, and the saleswoman is ex- 
pected to be always conversant with Fashion's latest 
dictum, few customers being at the time of bereavement 
in a condition to give more than the absolutelv necessary 
attention to the details of their sartorial expression of 
grief. Hence the order often comes in the simplest form 
-"Send us, the correct things for widow, daughters, 
sisters, &c., &c."-leaving the entire detail to the sales- 
woman, who is supposed to know her customers, and 
what will be becoming as well as suitable. 
  Years ago the "becomingness" was not considered; 
the ugliest things only were permitted as tokens of woe, 
a sort of metaphorical "sackcloth and ashes," but about 

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