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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur
(1909)
Lesson VIII: Mourning millinery, pp. 114-139
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Page 124
TtlE ART OF MILLINERY
strip of wadding tinder the cashmere, and silk hats
should have the fitted layer of wadding the same as in
colored work.
Wire frames must be first covered with muslin, then
with cheap crape, on which the drapings, etc., are done,
but thick folds and shirrings may be put right on the
muslin or cashmere. In fitting plain facings, take care
FIG. 10-CRAPE QUILL LONG BIAS, BOUND CROSS BIAS
FIG. 9
MAKING CRAPE WING
FIG. II-CRAPE PETAL,
FORMED ON WIRE
you do not stretch the crape out of line; it looks very
bad to see the welts pulled awry; they should cross the
middle front diagonally, unless you have the entire brim
on the bias; then the welts run straight from the edge
in from front to back, but this is not as pretty.
Shirred effects are measured, prepared and put in the
same as velvet or silk. Clusters, of tucks, folds or cord--
124
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