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THE ART OF MILLINERY 
comes in various thicknesses; another way is to cut 
strips of black sheet wadding, roll them to roundness 
                              BIAS 
         FIG. 7-JOINING CRAPE CUT ON BIAS 
between the flat hands and lay this roll inside folds, 
with an inner covering of thin interlining muslin. A 
succession of such folds around the upturned brim of 
toque or turban is very rich. 
  When puffing crape the plaits must be laid deeper 
than in velvet, as the springy nature of the material 
causes it to disarrange itself, and the puffs and folds 
need neat "tying" to keep them in place. Draping is 
for the same reason more difficult than in velvet, but 
a little practice with old crape (or cotton crape cloth at 
15 or 20 cents the yard) will soon enable the earnest 
worker to handle her crape with assurance of perfect 
results. (Silk muslin at 20 cents is a good substitute 
for the gauze materials and net to practice on.) 
  To make folded bands for knots or twisted trim- 
mings, allow plenty in width, so that when the folds 
are laid and basted along the middle of the piece the 
two edges may be turned under and "cat-stitched" 
down on the trimming; if the strip does not allow of 
this, it should be narrowly "roll hemmed" and mounted 
on a strip of thin crape. Short pieces of laid folds can 
be held in place with pins till sewn in place. Folds can 
also be held as laid and pinned, by securing with cross 
lines of stitches on the wrong side at intervals of several 
inches. 
   For gathered or plaited rosettes and ruches the crape 
may be on the straight, or cross bias, the strip, it thin 
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