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TtIE ART OF MILLINERY 
  Crape done on cords looks best on the true bias, or 
on the straight, which also holds true of shirrings, 
tucks, plaitings, ruches; the long welt bias allowing 
the work to spread, and spoiling the harmony of lines. 
All this class of work is more troublesome in crape 
than almost any other material, hence needs extra care 
in cutting, pinning, basting; which    with  accurate 
measurements and good work will ensure satisfactory 
results. 
       *FIG. 6-JOINING CRAPE CUT ON STRAIGHT 
               BIAS 
  In measuring for tucks, etc., the same methods as 
for ordinary millinery are employed, but from the 
nature of the material it follows that less fullness will 
give better effects, but this again depends onl the quality 
of the crape and should be tested. All joins must be 
along the welt, never across. (Figs. 6 and 7.) 
  For draperies, bows, folds, the crape may be either 
on the straight or the cross lines, according to how the 
hat is made; these two lines should, however, never 
be mixed. 
  Slipstitched, or "French" folds are very effective in 
crape. They are made in the same way as velvet, ex- 
tra care being required not to catch the under side of 
the fold, or it will "twist" badly. To make folds roll- 
a pretty and effective method for crape work-a nar- 
rower strip of interlining muslin or black cr~pe fran- 
caise is laid inside; or one makes also "corded" folds, 
by running into single cut folds "crape cord," which 
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