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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter XV: Lace, net, and tulle working; caps and bonnets,   pp. 167-183 PDF (3.3 MB)

Page 168

   PLAIN COVERING OF SHAPES.-Net and tulle should 
be rolled, and carefully pinned in layers as required before being 
cut into strips, as they are most difficult materials to cut singly. 
They are not often cross-cut, but are frequently cut along the 
length rather than across the width when long strips are required. 
The methods of cutting and covering are the same as those 
explained in Chapter VII, excepting that tulle, and sometimes 
very fine net, are put on to the shape four, five, six, and even 
ninefold ; these layers are cut together, never singly, so the tulle 
is folded accordingly before the patterns are planned on to it. 
   Alternate layers of fourfold tulle, in several soft shades, as 
heliotrope, pink, blue, or in flame, lemon, or saxe blue, make a 
pretty variety in colouring. Several folds of black tulle over a 
plain covering of gold or tinsel is also pretty and suits many faces. 
   BRIM-EDGES.-The brim-edge of a tulle hat is not finished 
as is one of heavier material. Very frequently the edges of 
tulle project from 1 in. to 2 in. beyond the outline of the shape, 
and are simply cut evenly with very sharp scissors, a few tie- 
stitches being made through the tulle to the shape, to keep the 
folds from shifting out of place. 
   Sometimes fine lace or crinoline edging is sewn to the cut 
edges of the tulle, to weight them a little. Occasionally the 
finest cross-cut binding of silk finishes the edge of the tulle, or 
chenille is carefully whipped over it. Tulle cannot be hemmed 
in any way, and lengths are always joined by being well over- 
lapped at their edges and temporarily pinned or lightly tacked. 
   Net is treated in the same manner as tulle, but having a 
little more substance and less stickiness, it may be pressed with 
a warm iron when a single turn is essential along an edge. 
   Net makes a pretty covering when gathered and some qualities 
may be cross-cut, and set into folds by an experienced worker. 
   Plain Brussels net makes a very nice "cased" hat (see 
Chapter XVI) if it is finely run and mounted on fine wires. 
   Ringed and spotted nets and those having a tiny sprig pow- 
dered over them can be used for plain covering, but the outer 

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