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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter IX: Lining, binding and facing brims,   pp. 105-109 PDF (927.6 KB)

Page 109

    If pleated, the binding is usually prepared as described in 
Chapter XI on " Ruching and Pleating," and illustrated by 
Figs. 7 and 9 in the same chapter. 
    FACINGS.-Thesc arc usually cut to shape by the pattern of 
the outer edge of a brim ; they may be 1 I in. to 3 in. or 4 in. in 
width. Facings must be fitted carefully to the brim; then the 
edges are turned in about I in. on either side and slip-stitched 
down to the brim. A cord or wire may be inserted just under 
the turned-in edge of the facing, and stab-stitches used instead 
of slip-stitches to fasten down the material and cord. In arranging 
this, pin both edges of the facing to the brim all round. Take 
a length of lace or fine wire and with the left hand unpin a short 
length of the silk from the brim, place the wire inside the edge 
of the silk covering, draw the silk and wire up well, and stitch 
them to the edge of the brim in position, so that the wire comes 
just beyond the brim, forming a firm roll effect. Stitch it to the 
brim with invisible stitches on the upper side, and -a in. stitches 
below. The sewing cotton or silk must be drawn very tightly 
so that the wire rolls over the line of stitching and thus produces 
a finished appearance. A wide crossway facing of either velvet 
or brocade is frequently used on an upturned brim where a fold 
might look rather too bulky. Oddly-shaped little facings of 
brightly-coloured silks, ribbons and brocade (Figs. 4, 5 and 6) 
add charm and smartness to a hat of dark velvet, plain cloth, 
silk, etc. 

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