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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery
(1922)

Chapter VIII: Straw working,   pp. 93-104 PDF (2.4 MB)


Page 102

 
MILLINERY 
is neatly and carefully worked. There is also another point in 
their favour, that is the lessening of the total weight of the 
hat. 
   Capelines, many Tam-o'-Shanter, turban, and other types of 
headgear, are made according to Method 2, even when crinoline 
and lacey tuscan plaits are used; these are intended only for 
light wear in the summer time, and so need not be made par- 
ticularly durable. For these, straw plait is often worked into a 
large plateau, and then pleated or folded to form either a cap 
or the crown of a hat, toque, or matron's bonnet. Many a fan- 
tastical shape such as " torpedo," " diabolo," "
balloon," or huge 
Tam-o'-Shanter has been made in this way or manufactured of 
crinoline or other fine plait to be twisted and crushed into any 
form dictated by fashion's whim. 
   Another method of working plait is, for instance, that of 
cutting short lengths from the piece, and fitting each one to cover 
either brim or crown of shape (Figs. 9 and 10). This is not an 
economical method if one is thinking of remodelling these short 
lengths of plait at some future time. 
    We see brims covered with tab-shaped pieces (Fig. 10), and the 
cycle of fashion is constantly introducing old and new methods 
of strawing, but the standard ways are the long-standing favour- 
ites, and certainly are best when the processes of turning and 
re-dyeing have to be considered. 
    A hand-made hat of plait is easily renovated, and if the plait 
 is wisely chosen and a good quality and colouring are obtained, 
 it is well worth turning and remodelling when it becomes faded. 
 Often the best pieces of plait from two worn hats may be com- 
 bined and made into one good wearable hat; or probably the 
 most worn portion, i.e. the brim-edge straw or the top of the 
 crown may be cast aside, and another fabric introduced for the 
 crown and as a binding at the brim edge. 
    Small hats and toques, as well as little hats, caps and bonnets 
 for children, can frequently be made from large-brimmed hats 
 that have lost their freshness; and steaming and pressing, with 
102 


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