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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VIII: Straw working,   pp. 93-104 PDF (2.4 MB)

Page 96

so that it is easily covered and made neat by the side-band. 
Should the brim of the shape differ in width at any part, extra 
pieces or gussets of plait (see Fig. 2) must be added until an 
even line is obtained round the head-part of crown, which must 
be circled with a complete upstanding ring of straw after the 
gussets have been arranged. 
    The crown strawing is commenced at the centre, about 1 in. 
of plait being ravelled and twisted to make a fine, neat starting- 
point (Fig. 3), and then firmly sewn apart from the shape (Fig. 4). 
    The " tip " or top of crown may be circular or oval in shape
and the plait must be worked accordingly (Figs. 5 and 6). The 
first few rows or the entire top of crown should be worked away 
from the shape-each row of plait being well sewn to the pre- 
ceding one-and then either steamed or pressed according to the 
nature of the plait. Many workers complete the crown-top and 
side-band before fastening the plait to the shape; others pin 
the crown-top into place over the shape, and then continue down 
the band to the head-part, fitting each row of plait just under- 
neath the one above it, as they pin and sew right through the 
shape. Both these methods are good, so the one that appeals 
to the worker should be chosen. 
    Another method is to sew the straw to an oval crown from front 
to back, meeting the fancy edges of the two centre rows down the 
centre; and then, working away from each side, to finish the 
straw in a lozenge-shaped piece that is quite ornamental. In 
this case the base of the crown is finished off with a single row 
or twist of straw carried round it. A crown that is bent in 
at the top should be started with a straight piece of straw 
8 in. or 4 in. long; rows of straw should then be shaped and 
stretched round it, the straw being steamed or damped and 
pressed into the hollows as the working proceeds. A sugar-loaf 
crown must. be steamed and pressed row by row, and care taken 
to keep the shape in working. 
   If a crown is strawed from base to tip as is sometimes done, 
great difficulty is experienced in obtaining a well-shaped and 

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