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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter VII: Covering shapes,   pp. 78-92 PDF (2.9 MB)

Page 92

    DRAPING is an art that demands deftness of fingers, a 
knowledge of the possibilities of the material being manipulated, 
and an understanding and appreciation of " line,"         "
and true proportion. A stiffly-set drapery is never an artistic 
achievement, and students would be well advised to practise 
draping with crossway muslin or old material on a discarded hat 
or toque before trying their skill on new fabrics. 
    SWATHING differs somewhat from draping, inasmuch as 
the folds are arranged in a more spiral or twisting fashion like 
those of an Eastern turban. This method of covering is usually 
applied to closely-fitting shapes, or those having a very narrow 
brim. Softly-finished silks and satins fall into the daintiest folds, 
and light-weight chiffon velvet is often used most satisfactorily. 
A length of crosscut material is the easiest to arrange ; but wide, 
softly-finished chine ribbons make a very pretty swathing for a 
trimming round a crown, or even to cover an entire shape. 
Fig. 20 shows one method of swathing a piece of crosscut material 
over a small shape. 
   The material is first either pleated or gathered to the head- 
part of the crown, just sufficient fullness being allowed for the 
first fold of material to fall softly round the shape. The folds 
are drawn slightly on the cross as they are pinned to the shape, 
and arranged in a spiral form from right to left as they are car- 
ried upward towards the top of the crown, where they finish in 
the centre or to one side. The folds require tie-stitching to the 
shape wherever they are pinned to keep them in place. 
   Fig. 21 shows a popular method of swathing ribbon round a 
hat crown. 

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