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Butterick Publishing Company / The new dressmaker; with complete and fully illustrated instructions on every point connected with sewing, dressmaking and tailoring, from the actual stitches to the cutting, making, altering, mending, and cleaning of clothes for ladies, misses, girls, children, infants, men and boys

Chapter 23: Collars, cuffs and belts,   pp. 109-111 PDF (864.6 KB)

Page 109

                    COLLARS, CUFFS AND BELTS 
Unlined Collars-lined Collars-Removable Collars-The High Collar-Collars and
         for Coats, Suits and Capes-Bottom of Dress Sleeve-Unlined Cuff-
                    Lined Cuff-Removable Cuff-Belts-Casings 
    baste the collar to the neck with the 
    under side of the collar against the right 
side of the garment. If the garment is of a 
material that is not transparent, baste a nar- 
row bias strip of material along the edge of the 
collar with the edges even. Stitch the seam 
and clip it at intervals so that it will not draw 
the neck. (Ill. 221.) 
  Turn under the edge of the facing and if the 
collar extends all around the neck, hem the 
facing to the garment covering the seam. If 
edge as in Illustration 221, turn under the inner           Alona the Edae
of the Collar 
edge of the facing on that part of the neck 
which is beyond the collar. Stretch it to fit 
the neck and stitch it close to the fold but not 
to the garment. The facing should simply be 
pressed. It lies flat against the garment with- 
out being stitched and as there is no strain on 
it it will stay in place. (Ill. 221.) 
  Seam binding may be used instead of a fac- 
ing. It should he sewed on flat as in Illustra- 
tion 222. It should be put on so that the 
lower edge is not tight on the garment, eas- 
ing the upper edge in wherever it is neces- 
   iL. z. 3eam oairnsm ay ne usea m     sary to make it hie nat. kin. 22.)
            Place of a Facing              If the garment is of sheer material,
the collar 
                                         may be sewed on with machine hemstitching
(Chapter 25, page 118), with a narrow rolled hem or a flat fell seam (Chapter
17, page 
87) or the seam may be trimmed off to Y inch width and finely overcast. The
hemstitching is the daintiest finish. 
  TO MAKE AND SEW ON A LINED COLLAR turn under the seam allowance along 
the outer edge of the collar and sew on the trimming or stitch it in any
way desired before 
the collar is lined. Turn under the outer edge of the collar lining Y of
an inch more 
than the collar itself and baste it to the wrong side of the collar with
the edge of the lining 
about Y of an inch within the edge of the collar, taking care not to stretch
it or pull the 
edges. (Ill. 223 on next page.) 
  Baste the lining to the collar a little more than an inch from the neck
edge. Baste 
the collar to the neck edge of the garment with the right side of the collar
to the wrong 
side of the garment and with the seam toward the outside of the garment.
Stitch the 
seam. Baste the lining neck edge over the seam and hem it down neatly by
hand. (Ill. 223.) 

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