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Butterick Publishing Company / The new dressmaker; with complete and fully illustrated instructions on every point connected with sewing, dressmaking and tailoring, from the actual stitches to the cutting, making, altering, mending, and cleaning of clothes for ladies, misses, girls, children, infants, men and boys
([1921])

Chapter 9: Skirts for ladies and misses,   pp. 47-50 PDF (1.1 MB)


Page 47

 
CHAPTER 9 
                    SKIRTS FOR LADIES AND MISSES 
Skirt Pattems-Pattern Alterations-Cutting-Foundation or Drop Skirt-Inside
Belt-Putting 
    the Skirt Together-Alterations-Hanging a Gored Skirt-Hanging a Circular
Skirt- 
        Altering the Length of a Gored Skirt-Placket-Finish of Seams-Seam
                       Allowance at Top of Skirt-Finish of Skirt 
HE SKIRT PATTERN should be bought by the hip measure. (Chapter 2, page 
     11, instructions on getting the right-size patterns.) 
  PATTERN ALTERATIONS. Before cutting your material compare the waist mea-
sure given on the pattern envelope with your own waist measure, and if it
is too large or 
too small it can be altered according to instructions given in Chapter 2,
page 11. 
  Compare the front length of the pattern below the regulation waistline
with the length 
you want to make your finished skirt. You will find the front length of the
pattern 
given on the pattern envelope. The regulation waistline is marked on the
pattern. If 
the pattern is too long or too short for you, alter the length as explained
in Chapter 3, 
pages 22 and 23. When you decide on the length of your skirt, you must also
decide 
whether you will finish it with a hem or facing. Advice on the use of hems
and facings 
is given in Chapters 18 and 19. If you are a woman of average height, you
will have to 
make an allowance for the hem in cutting. Ladies' patterns do not allow for
hems ex- 
cept in special instances: If you are shorter than the average, the skirt
pattern may be 
sufficiently long to allow for the hem. Misses' patterns give a three-inch-hem
allowance. 
In the case of a tall girl, or of a small woman who is using a misses' pattern,
it may be neces- 
sary to make an additional hem allowance if a hem is used. 
  If your figure is irregular in any way, if you have prominent hips or a
prominent ab- 
domen, etc., the skirt pattern should be altered as explained in Chapter
5, pages 28-30. 
  CUTTING. Before cutting your material read Chapter 6 on Materials, Sponging,
Steaming, Cutting. etc. 
  Lay the pattern on the material according to the Deltor layouts included
in the pat- 
tern. If the pattern does not contain a Deltor, follow the cutting instructions
given 
with the pattern. If you are not familiar with perforations and their uses,
read Chapter 
2, pages 15 to 18. 
  Cut out the skirt following 'the advice given in Chapter 6. Mark all the
perforations 
with tailors' tacks. (Chapter 16, page 85.) 
  The notches can either be clipped or marked with two or three stitches
in basting- 
cotton. If you clip them, cut them so that you can see them distinctly, but
do not make 
them any deeper than necessary. 
  For your wash skirt the inside belt should be shrunken before it is used.
  FOUNDATION OR DROP SKIRT. China silk is the best and most satisfactory
material for the foundation or drop skirt. However, for wearing qualities
many women 
prefer some of the lining materials which are mixtures of silk and cotton,
or the better 
grades of percaline. 
  For the transparent materials such as lace, net, chiffon, Georgette or
silk voile, Brus- 
sels net is the best material for the foundation or the drop skirt. 
  If the pattern has a foundation skirt, it should be made before the skirt
itself. The 
Deltor or Illustrated Instructions will show you, with pictures how to make
the drop skirt. 
Then make the outside skirt, tunic or drapery, following the Deltor or Illustrated
Instructions. 
                                         47 


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