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CHAPTER XIX 
                             TAILORED SEAMS 
MANY KINDS of seams are used in the making of tailored costumes. It is neces-
        sary to keep the cloth extremely smooth at the seams and to make
the stitching as 
        even as possible. In making a garment that requires a tailored finish
one should 
        not be sparing in the use of bastings 
and the hot iron. He was a wise and honest 
tailor who declared "In the flat-iron is our 
fortune," and the dressmaker who would 
be successful along the same lines will do 
well to keep in mind this well-tried maxim. 
  IN PLAIN SEAMS of very closely wov- 
en material that does not fray or ravel, the 
eages or thne seams may be simply notcned  Fg.251. Edge of Plain Fig. 252.
EdgesofPlain 
or pinked, and pressed open. (Fig. 251.)       Seam Pinked          Seam
Bound 
  Plain seams of jackets, cloaks and other 
garments made of heavy material that will fray should be bound with satin,
silk or 
farmers' satin. This is cut in bias strips just a trifle wider than the depth
of the seam 
after it is closed. Stitch the binding on the right side of the seam edge,
close to the edge, 
then baste it flat, covering the edge. Close the seam of the garment with
bastings catch- 
                                                    ing through both cloth
and bind- 
ings. Then stitch. 
  A better way, requiring more 
labor, however, is to stitch the 
seam and press it open. After 
pressing, the  seam   will have 
spread at the edges, especially 
if it is curved, and the binding 
can be safely applied without any 
chance of pulling later. 
Fig. 253. Stitching on One" Fig 254. Stitching on Both Biaste tne strip
or Dinding on 
      Side of Seam              Sides of Seam       the right side of the
edges; turn 
                                                    it over the raw seam
edge and 
fell it down on the underside, keeping the turned edges of the binding even
on both 
sides of the seam edge.  (Fig. 252.) It is finished with one row of machine
stitching 
close to the edge of the binding. 
  When Trimming is to be applied over seams, tLe plain seam is used. It should
be 
lihqnilha nnnnlM-elxr ,inin nregqel before 
the trimming is added. 
  Joined Seams of garments that have 
the lining cut like the outer pattern 
and stitched together, are finished by 
turning in the raw edges of the seams 
of both cloth and fining toward each 
other and closing the edge with over- 
hand or runmng stitches. Where the           Fig. 255. Broad 5eam Stitch
seam is curved, the edges must be 
notched every now and then to prevent the garment from pulling at such points.
  AN ORDINARY TAILORED SEAM, which makes a good neat finish, is the plain
seam 
pressed with both edges turned to one side, and a row of machine stitching
run in neatly 
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