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Ben Yƻsuf, Anna / The art of millinery: a complete series of practical lessons for the artiste and the amateur

Lesson V: Shirrings and folds,   pp. 62-82 PDF (3.3 MB)

Page 62

                 LESSON V 
              The Frame and Covering 
F course shirred and tucked velvet or silk can be 
     and often is used over solid frames, but it is not 
     best, and should be avoided if possible; good firm 
cape net, well braced, is good, but a firm wire frame 
covered smoothly with thinnest crinoline muslin is of 
all things the best. In some cases the crinoline cover- 
ing even may be dispensed with; that depends entirely 
on the nature of the work, if or not it is needed to 
secure any part of the tucking or shirring to, as this is 
the only reason for covering the frame first. In using 
silk, the under-covering may be even lighter, such as 
cheap tarlatan. 
  In all things the worker must use forethought and 
common sense; the easiest way that will yield the best 
results is the right way. If the frame is not covered 
first it will be found of great help to put a double bias 
band of crinoline one-inch or more wide around the in- 
side of the crown at the headline; it should be sewn to 
the headwire with a longish buttonhole stitch. This 
makes a firm foundation to which to sew both brim and 
crown work, and later the trimming. 
          To Measure and Cut the Velvet 
  To measure for the piece required first decide if the 
upper and under, or outer and inner brims are to be all 
in one piece. In small hats, toques and similar shapes, 
the material is frequently in one from the outer head- 
line to the headsize inside the crown; but in large flat 
shapes this is very rarely the case, the under brim be- 
ing more usually faced with folds or shirrings of a 
sheer material. In either case measure the widest part 
of brim,.add to this the necessary turning at headline 
and edge, then add for whatever tucks you intend put- 
ting in and still one inch more for "making." This last 

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