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Anslow, Florence / Practical millinery

Chapter III: Pattern making,   pp. 30-45 PDF (3.5 MB)

Page 30

                    PATTERN MAKING 
O NE of the first tasks of the student is to provide herself 
      with a pattern from which to make her hat. There are two 
,usual methods of obtaining this: (a) By pinning soft paper or 
muslin over each part of a shape already to hand, and moulding 
it until it fits exactly the form of the shape desired; (b) by 
drafting the pattern geometrically. Both methods are good, 
and provided that the shape required is always to hand, and a 
pattern can be moulded from it, method (a) is probably the 
easier and quicker for the unskilled draughtswoman. But it is 
certain that if method (b) is thoroughly understood, it leads to 
greater originality and more knowledge of shape cutting and 
making, as well as opening up very wide possibilities in shape 
designing; and that the time and patience expended in mastering 
this part of the craft will, in time, be amply repaid. 
   To obtain a pattern by method (a) pin soft tissue paper over 
the under part of the hat brim (Fig. 1) and mould it to the exact 
shape of the brim. If the brim is quite flat this is an easy matter, 
but if it either droops or rolls upward at any point the paper 
must be cut, or pleated, and carefully smoothed and fitted into 
all the different parts. When a drooping or an upturned brim 
is the model it may be necessary to cut away quite a large portion 
of the paper after fitting it carefully round the brim edge, in order 
to obtain a true fit round the head part (Fig. 2). If the paper 
were fitted flatly over the head opening and brim (Fig. 1), the 
pattern would be too tightly strained across the head part and 
would not give the correct size and shape. After the paper has 
been moulded to shape the surplus must be cut away at the brim 
edge and headline, and before the pattern is unpinned the exact 
centre point of the front and back of the head part should be 
either snicked or marked in pencil upon it. 

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